Wine: Mor­gon’s wide range

The Week (US) - - 25 - 2016 Jean Paul Brun Do­maine des Ter­res Dorées 2016 M. & C. Lapierre 2016 Jean Foil­lard Côte du Py

“Good wine is al­most never sim­ple,” said Eric Asi­mov in The New York Times. Mor­gons, for ex­am­ple, are al­most uni­formly “in­sanely easy to drink” yet show the depth you’d ex­pect from a top Beau­jo­lais cru. But even within the cru, soil makeup varies widely, and dif­fer­ent wine­mak­ing tech­niques gen­er­ate more va­ri­ety still, as these bot­tles tes­tify.

($23). Made from grapes grown in sandy gran­ite soil, this Mor­gon is “del­i­cate yet res­o­nant”—“full of the aro­mas and fla­vors of cher­ries and flow­ers.”

($30). Though rooted in sim­i­lar soil, this Mor­gon is “quite a bit richer: bright, fresh, en­er­getic,” with a sim­i­lar un­der­ly­ing min­er­al­ity.

($35). The Côte du Py is “es­sen­tially a hill of schist”; its grapes pro­duce a fuller-bod­ied wine with “a pro­nounced licorice fla­vor” and more bot­tom.

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