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MAKING 600-PLUS HP WITH A 6.7L CUMMINS VIA THE INTERNET
Hopping Up a 6.7 Over the Internet
In this issue, we begin a three-part series covering one man’s quest for more horsepower from his 2010 Ram 2500 with the 6.7L Cummins engine under the hood. Brandon Baker has owned his Ram for nearly two years but spent 11 months of that time stationed in Afghanistan with the U.S. Army. But he didn’t allow the remote location to impede his desire for power. When Baker had a good Internet connection available, he would do research and shop for the best parts to meet his power goals.
Now that he's back home in Bristol, Virginia, he has turned his truck and a load of parts over to the team at RPM Offroad in Bristol, TN, to turn up the wick on the 6.7L common rail Cummins.
Baker’s Internet shopping spree landed him the parts and pieces he felt he’d need to put together a 650-plus-hp combination. The biggest Internet find was an Industrial Injection 120% over CP3 pump that was purchased by another Cummins owner who totaled his truck before he had a chance to install it. Baker purchased it for a great price without a core charge, allowing him to keep his old CP3 to possibly upgrade to duals in the future. Additionally, he bought a set of Glacier Diesel Power 150hp injector nozzles, Hamilton Cams valve springs and Maxspool Engineering chromoly push rods to improve the top end on his Cummins.
Then, to make his truck breathe better, he purchased a Forced Inductions Borgwarner S472 72/83/.90 turbocharger and a Fleece Performance Engineering S400 installation kit, complete with the machined Steed Speed exhaust manifold and Fleece “Mantake” system. To round out the upgrades, Baker purchased an Airdog 150 fuel pump/filter system and a set of Glowshift gauges to monitor rail pressure, EGT and boost; it would be installed in an MBRP A-pillar pod.
He already had a good foundation with an H&S Mini Maxx tuner, head studs, 5-inch-diam- eter turbo-back exhaust system, S&B cold-air intake, South Bend heavy-duty, double-disc clutch in the six-speed manual transmission and TS Performance MP-8. This put him into the mid-400hp range—but of course, he wanted even more.
Installing the new parts took the crew at RPM Offroad about three and a half days (with our camera documenting the process and slowing things down).
If you have the mechanical skills and tools to perform the upgrade yourself, you should probably plan on a week of downtime or at least a few weekends if you can’t work on your truck full time.
This article will cover the first segment of the upgrade to Baker’s 6.7L Cummins: RPM Offroad diesel technician Steven Stoops gets into the head and installs new injector nozzles, push rods and valve springs.
But you’ll have to wait for our next issue to see the turbo, CP3 and Airdog installation. Then, we will wrap up the series by installing the Glowshift gauges and a trip to the Beans Diesel Performance chassis dyno for some H&S Maxx Calibration Control tuning. UDBG
The Fleece Performance Engineering S400 installation kit surrounds the large Forced Inductions Borgwarner S472 charger.
While the Airdog 150 will get plenty of fuel from the tank to the Industrial Injection CP3, the Glacier Diesel injector nozzles will send more of it into the engine. The Hamilton Cam valve springs work hand in hand with the Maxspool Engineering push rods
5 Stoops removes the rocker box next to make room to remove the injectors and swap out the valve springs and push rods. 6 Next to come off the top of the Cummins are the rocker arms. Stoops carefully sets them aside, maintaining the proper order for reass
2 Steven Stoops starts the day by removing the S&B cold air intake. He makes sure to disconnect both the sensor harnesses. Once they are removed, he will transfer the sensors over to the Fleece intake tube. 3 The next item to be removed is the multipiece
With the valve cover removed, he loosens and disconnects both fuel injector harness leads from each of the six injectors. After all the leads are disconnected, the injector harness assembly can be removed.
1 This engine bay looks okay, but we’re sure it will look better with a big turbo and less clutter!
After the rocker arms are removed, the push rods can simply be lifted out of the head. If you are reusing the stock rockers, be sure to keep them in order. The cowl overhangs the rear two cylinders, making it difficult to remove the four rear push rods, b
To remove the injectors, Stoops loosens both injector hold down bolts and then gently pries up on them with a pry bar to pop them up out of the head. Make sure that the copper sealing washer comes out with the injector. If it does not, you will have to fi
Before the fuel injectors can be removed, the fuel lines and injector cross tubes must be removed and set aside. To remove the front cross tube, the intake elbow had to be removed.
Stoops rotates the engine over using a gear drive in the transmission housing until the piston is at the top of each bore. He then installs the base of the valve spring compressor using the supplied hardware to secure it to the cylinder head where the rem
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After loosening the nozzle retainer, Stoops carefully tilts the nozzle to one side, making sure that the alignment pins, collar and small insert are not lost. 6.7L Cummins nozzles have this collar and insert between the injector and nozzle. When you chan
The injector is placed in a tool clamped into the bench vice for disassembly.
Stoops makes sure the collar and insert are properly installed then aligns the new Glacier Diesel Power nozzle on the injector body and installs the retaining nut. Then torques the nut to 50 ft-lb using a torque wrench.
Before moving on, Stoops likes to tap each valve with a brass hammer to make sure that the keepers and retainers are properly seated on each valve stem. To complete the injector upgrade, the injector cross tubes must be reinstalled. Be sure to properly al
19 22&23 20 21 24 fuel rail.
With the springs compressed, a magnet is used to remove both of the valve spring keepers on each of the four valve springs. After all the keepers are removed, the nut and plate can be removed. This allows the springs to be swapped out. Then, the process i
After changing all 24 valve springs, he turns his attention back to the injectors and coats each one with a film of Royal Purple Max-tuff assembly lube before sliding them back into the cylinder head. The fuel injector hold-down bolts are then torqued in
Stoops installs the aluminum spring compression plate and tightens the nut to compress all four valve springs at one time.
The beefy chromoly Maxspool Engineering push rods are simply slid into place over each of the 12 lifters. To set the valve lash, rotate the crank until the TDC mark on the damper is at the 12 o’clock position. If both number-1 cylinder rocker arms are loo
Before reassembling the valve train, Stoops applies a dab of Royal Purple assembly lube to each valve stem and each push rod. He then installs the valve bridges and lubes them as well. Note that when installing the bridges, the ball stamped on the bridges
Then, the rocker box and injector harness can be reinstalled before the rest of the valve cover is reassembled and the head is buttoned up. Be careful when tightening the injector harness nuts; they are tightened to only 11 inch/lbs.
Next, the rocker arms can be reinstalled with the pedestal bolts torqued to 27 lb/ft before the valve’s lash is set.
Stoops finished the day by installing the valve cover sections. Next issue, we’ll cover the turbo installation and the rest of the fuel system upgrade.