Ultimate Diesel Builder's Guide - - Contents -

Hop­ping Up a 6.7 Over the Internet

In this is­sue, we be­gin a three-part se­ries cov­er­ing one man’s quest for more horse­power from his 2010 Ram 2500 with the 6.7L Cum­mins en­gine un­der the hood. Bran­don Baker has owned his Ram for nearly two years but spent 11 months of that time sta­tioned in Afghanistan with the U.S. Army. But he didn’t al­low the re­mote lo­ca­tion to im­pede his de­sire for power. When Baker had a good Internet con­nec­tion available, he would do re­search and shop for the best parts to meet his power goals.

Now that he's back home in Bris­tol, Vir­ginia, he has turned his truck and a load of parts over to the team at RPM Of­froad in Bris­tol, TN, to turn up the wick on the 6.7L com­mon rail Cum­mins.

Baker’s Internet shop­ping spree landed him the parts and pieces he felt he’d need to put to­gether a 650-plus-hp com­bi­na­tion. The big­gest Internet find was an In­dus­trial In­jec­tion 120% over CP3 pump that was pur­chased by an­other Cum­mins owner who to­taled his truck be­fore he had a chance to in­stall it. Baker pur­chased it for a great price with­out a core charge, al­low­ing him to keep his old CP3 to pos­si­bly up­grade to du­als in the fu­ture. Ad­di­tion­ally, he bought a set of Glacier Diesel Power 150hp in­jec­tor noz­zles, Hamil­ton Cams valve springs and Maxspool En­gi­neer­ing chro­moly push rods to im­prove the top end on his Cum­mins.

Then, to make his truck breathe bet­ter, he pur­chased a Forced In­duc­tions Borg­warner S472 72/83/.90 tur­bocharger and a Fleece Per­for­mance En­gi­neer­ing S400 in­stal­la­tion kit, complete with the ma­chined Steed Speed ex­haust man­i­fold and Fleece “Man­take” sys­tem. To round out the up­grades, Baker pur­chased an Air­dog 150 fuel pump/fil­ter sys­tem and a set of Glow­shift gauges to mon­i­tor rail pres­sure, EGT and boost; it would be in­stalled in an MBRP A-pil­lar pod.

He al­ready had a good foun­da­tion with an H&S Mini Maxx tuner, head studs, 5-inch-diam- eter turbo-back ex­haust sys­tem, S&B cold-air in­take, South Bend heavy-duty, dou­ble-disc clutch in the six-speed man­ual trans­mis­sion and TS Per­for­mance MP-8. This put him into the mid-400hp range—but of course, he wanted even more.

In­stalling the new parts took the crew at RPM Of­froad about three and a half days (with our cam­era doc­u­ment­ing the process and slow­ing things down).

If you have the me­chan­i­cal skills and tools to per­form the up­grade your­self, you should prob­a­bly plan on a week of down­time or at least a few week­ends if you can’t work on your truck full time.

This ar­ti­cle will cover the first seg­ment of the up­grade to Baker’s 6.7L Cum­mins: RPM Of­froad diesel tech­ni­cian Steven Stoops gets into the head and in­stalls new in­jec­tor noz­zles, push rods and valve springs.

But you’ll have to wait for our next is­sue to see the turbo, CP3 and Air­dog in­stal­la­tion. Then, we will wrap up the se­ries by in­stalling the Glow­shift gauges and a trip to the Beans Diesel Per­for­mance chas­sis dyno for some H&S Maxx Cal­i­bra­tion Con­trol tun­ing. UDBG

The Fleece Per­for­mance En­gi­neer­ing S400 in­stal­la­tion kit sur­rounds the large Forced In­duc­tions Borg­warner S472 charger.

While the Air­dog 150 will get plenty of fuel from the tank to the In­dus­trial In­jec­tion CP3, the Glacier Diesel in­jec­tor noz­zles will send more of it into the en­gine. The Hamil­ton Cam valve springs work hand in hand with the Maxspool En­gi­neer­ing push rods

5 Stoops re­moves the rocker box next to make room to re­move the in­jec­tors and swap out the valve springs and push rods. 6 Next to come off the top of the Cum­mins are the rocker arms. Stoops care­fully sets them aside, main­tain­ing the proper or­der for re­ass

2 Steven Stoops starts the day by re­mov­ing the S&B cold air in­take. He makes sure to dis­con­nect both the sen­sor har­nesses. Once they are re­moved, he will trans­fer the sen­sors over to the Fleece in­take tube. 3 The next item to be re­moved is the mul­ti­p­iece

With the valve cover re­moved, he loosens and dis­con­nects both fuel in­jec­tor har­ness leads from each of the six in­jec­tors. Af­ter all the leads are dis­con­nected, the in­jec­tor har­ness assem­bly can be re­moved.


1 This en­gine bay looks okay, but we’re sure it will look bet­ter with a big turbo and less clut­ter!

Af­ter the rocker arms are re­moved, the push rods can sim­ply be lifted out of the head. If you are reusing the stock rockers, be sure to keep them in or­der. The cowl over­hangs the rear two cylin­ders, mak­ing it dif­fi­cult to re­move the four rear push rods, b


To re­move the in­jec­tors, Stoops loosens both in­jec­tor hold down bolts and then gen­tly pries up on them with a pry bar to pop them up out of the head. Make sure that the cop­per seal­ing washer comes out with the in­jec­tor. If it does not, you will have to fi


Be­fore the fuel in­jec­tors can be re­moved, the fuel lines and in­jec­tor cross tubes must be re­moved and set aside. To re­move the front cross tube, the in­take el­bow had to be re­moved.



Stoops ro­tates the en­gine over us­ing a gear drive in the trans­mis­sion hous­ing un­til the pis­ton is at the top of each bore. He then in­stalls the base of the valve spring com­pres­sor us­ing the supplied hard­ware to se­cure it to the cylin­der head where the rem

13 16 15 17 18

Af­ter loos­en­ing the noz­zle re­tainer, Stoops care­fully tilts the noz­zle to one side, mak­ing sure that the align­ment pins, col­lar and small insert are not lost. 6.7L Cum­mins noz­zles have this col­lar and insert be­tween the in­jec­tor and noz­zle. When you chan

The in­jec­tor is placed in a tool clamped into the bench vice for dis­as­sem­bly.


Stoops makes sure the col­lar and insert are prop­erly in­stalled then aligns the new Glacier Diesel Power noz­zle on the in­jec­tor body and in­stalls the re­tain­ing nut. Then torques the nut to 50 ft-lb us­ing a torque wrench.

Be­fore mov­ing on, Stoops likes to tap each valve with a brass ham­mer to make sure that the keep­ers and re­tain­ers are prop­erly seated on each valve stem. To complete the in­jec­tor up­grade, the in­jec­tor cross tubes must be re­in­stalled. Be sure to prop­erly al

19 22&23 20 21 24 fuel rail.

With the springs com­pressed, a mag­net is used to re­move both of the valve spring keep­ers on each of the four valve springs. Af­ter all the keep­ers are re­moved, the nut and plate can be re­moved. This al­lows the springs to be swapped out. Then, the process i

Af­ter chang­ing all 24 valve springs, he turns his at­ten­tion back to the in­jec­tors and coats each one with a film of Royal Pur­ple Max-tuff assem­bly lube be­fore slid­ing them back into the cylin­der head. The fuel in­jec­tor hold-down bolts are then torqued in

Stoops in­stalls the alu­minum spring com­pres­sion plate and tight­ens the nut to com­press all four valve springs at one time.

The beefy chro­moly Maxspool En­gi­neer­ing push rods are sim­ply slid into place over each of the 12 lifters. To set the valve lash, ro­tate the crank un­til the TDC mark on the damper is at the 12 o’clock po­si­tion. If both num­ber-1 cylin­der rocker arms are loo


Be­fore re­assem­bling the valve train, Stoops ap­plies a dab of Royal Pur­ple assem­bly lube to each valve stem and each push rod. He then in­stalls the valve bridges and lubes them as well. Note that when in­stalling the bridges, the ball stamped on the bridges



Then, the rocker box and in­jec­tor har­ness can be re­in­stalled be­fore the rest of the valve cover is re­assem­bled and the head is but­toned up. Be care­ful when tight­en­ing the in­jec­tor har­ness nuts; they are tight­ened to only 11 inch/lbs.


Next, the rocker arms can be re­in­stalled with the pedestal bolts torqued to 27 lb/ft be­fore the valve’s lash is set.


Stoops fin­ished the day by in­stalling the valve cover sec­tions. Next is­sue, we’ll cover the turbo in­stal­la­tion and the rest of the fuel sys­tem up­grade.


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