INTERNET POWERHOUSE PART 2
Horsepower for a 6.7L Cummins via the Web
Last issue, we followed along as diesel technician Steven Shoots, of RPM Offroad in Bristol, Tennessee, began some serious power upgrades on the 6.7L Cummins in a 2011 Ram. Owner Brandon Baker shopped the Internet for the best parts and deals he could find and put together a batch of components that he felt would push the Cummins toward the 500hp mark.
In the previous article, we documented the installation of the Glacier Diesel Power fuel injector nozzles, Hamilton Cams valve springs and Maxspool Engineering pushrods. In Part 2, we’ll install a Forced Inductions S472 turbo using a Fleece Performance Engineering installation kit. The big Cummins will also get a fuel system upgrade with an Airdog 150 and Industrial Injection 120% CP3 high-pressure fuel pump.
To make room for the larger turbo, the factory turbo and exhaust manifold were removed as a complete assembly. The Fleece kit comes with a Steed Speed exhaust manifold, intake tube, afe air filter, modified boost tube, downpipe, installation hardware and gaskets. However, the downpipe did not fit the large turbine output of the Forced Inductions turbo.
To get the system working, Shoots welded a new outlet flange on the Fleece downpipe, along with a coupler to match the 5-inch-diameter exhaust system that was already installed in Baker’s truck. He also had to take a couple of inches off the boost tube because the kit was designed for the previous body-style Dodge trucks; the modified boost tube was also a little too long for this application.
Other than the rather minor fabrication mentioned above, this segment of the installation was fairly uneventful and was really just a matter of swapping the old parts for the new high-performance parts. Next issue, we’ll install the Airdog fuel pump and wrap up these 6.7L Cummins modifications, including the installation of a set of Glowshift gauges. Then it’s off to the dyno to see what the power combination netted. UDBG
The 6.7L Cummins under the hood of Brandon Baker’s 2011 Ram looks much better with a lot of the clutter removed and a big ol’ turbo hanging off the passenger side!
While some minor fabrication was necessary, the Fleece Performance Engineering installation kit included everything needed to install the big Forced Inductions turbo on the Cummins.
1 This segment of the installation began with Steven Shoots removing the boost tube that connects the turbo outlet to the intercooler. Don’t throw away the boost tube—it needs to be sent back to Fleece Performance Engineering for the core charge. 4 With the turbo and manifold out of the way, install the water block-off plug in the block (shown) and the heater hose. It is also a good time to make sure the head does not have any gasket material or obstructions around the exhaust ports. Giving them a quick scrub with a red 3M Scotch-brite pad works great to make sure they are clean.
2 While the cooling system is draining, unplug the turbo’s VGT harness and then disconnect the oil and liquid cooling lines (see arrows) from the turbo cartridge, as well as the V-band clamp on the turbine outlet. 5 Shoots uses a double-nut technique to install the studs in the Steed Speed machined exhaust manifold.
3 The turbo and exhaust manifold are heavy, but they can be removed from the engine as a single unit to make things faster and easier. The rear exhaust manifold bolts have bands securing the bolts that must be removed before they can be loosened.
6 He mounts the Forced Induction turbo on the manifold using the new gasket supplied with the kit. He also clocks the housings and center cartridge for proper orientation in the truck: The oil feed is on the top and the drain on the bottom, perpendicular to the ground.
10&11 Rather than risk damaging the new oil drain tube, Shoots installs it after the turbo is mounted. Be sure to install the new gasket to make sure you don’t have any oil leaks. Shoots uses gasket sealant on the drain tube so that the gasket won’t stick to the turbo if it ever has to be removed.
8 Rather than trying to fight with the manifold bolts and all six gaskets while installing the manifold, Shoots installs a few of the upper manifold bolts to hold it in place while he installs the new gaskets that are supplied with the FPE kit. He removes the top bolt, slides the gasket into position as shown, and then reinstalls the bolt and rotates the gasket into proper position before installing the lower bolt.
9 Using thread sealant, install the oil feed fitting on the top of the turbo cartridge and connect the original oil feed line to the new turbocharger.
7 Michael Powell lends a hand to get the big turbo and manifold over the fender and into the engine bay.
12&13 To fit into the new body style Ram truck, the modified boost tube included with the FPE kit had to be shortened a few additional inches before it was installed between the turbo outlet and the intercooler. Be sure to leave the factory bead on the end so that hoses do not pop off under high boost.
14 Shoots relocated the grid heater solenoid to the lower front part of the battery tray so that the intake tube would not short out against the terminals. 18 Shoots welded a new flange onto the FPE downpipe to work with the large S472 Forced Inductions turbo.
20 The first step to swapping the CP3 high-pressure fuel pump on the Cummins is removing the plastic access cover (see arrow) on the front of the gear cover.
19 With the new inlet flange and modifications to the outlet mated with the exhaust system Baker already had on the truck, the downpipe slid right into place.
15 The factory sensors can then be installed on the intake tube before it is installed in the truck, using the 45-degree coupler and the afe air filter included with the Fleece installation kit.
16&17 An adapter is installed on the metal EGR coolant hose, which is then routed back into the cylinder head, using a barbed fitting and silicon hose.
22&23 Next, Shoots installs the gear locator on the CP3 gear (see arrow) to prevent it from moving out of position while the old CP3 is removed and the new one is installed. 26 Lubricate the O-ring on the CP3 snout and install it in the stock location using the original mounting hardware. Then, reconnect the fuel lines and harness as they were originally installed.
25 Sitting side by side, the pumps look virtually identical (aside from one being used and one new), but its what’s inside that counts; the internal modifications on the Industrial Injection pump allow it to flow 120 percent more fuel than a stock pump.
24 After loosening the CP3 mounting bolts and disconnecting the fuel lines and harness, Shoots snakes the pump out below the intake elbow.
21 Then, the nut and lock washer can be carefully removed from the pump shaft. Make sure you do not drop either of them into the gear cover, or you will create a whole lot more work for yourself. Shoots uses a magnet to make sure he doesn’t drop anything (see arrow).
27 Shoots carefully reinstalls the lock washer and nut on the CP3 and then tightens the nut to factory specs with a torque wrench to make sure the gear does not spin on the shaft. 28 Don’t forget to refill the cooling system. Powell used a clean bucket to catch the original coolant. As a result, he was able to simply refill the system with the original coolant, because truck owner Baker doesn’t have a ton of miles on the truck. If you are unsure of the condition of the coolant, or if it has been in the engine for several years, this would be a good time to fill the system with new coolant.
29 Now this is what a performance Cummins should look like!