Horse­power for a 6.7L Cum­mins via the Web

Ultimate Diesel Builder's Guide - - Contents -

Last is­sue, we fol­lowed along as diesel tech­ni­cian Steven Shoots, of RPM Of­froad in Bris­tol, Ten­nessee, be­gan some se­ri­ous power up­grades on the 6.7L Cum­mins in a 2011 Ram. Owner Bran­don Baker shopped the In­ter­net for the best parts and deals he could find and put to­gether a batch of com­po­nents that he felt would push the Cum­mins to­ward the 500hp mark.

In the pre­vi­ous ar­ti­cle, we doc­u­mented the in­stal­la­tion of the Glacier Diesel Power fuel in­jec­tor noz­zles, Hamil­ton Cams valve springs and Maxspool Engi­neer­ing pushrods. In Part 2, we’ll in­stall a Forced In­duc­tions S472 turbo us­ing a Fleece Per­for­mance Engi­neer­ing in­stal­la­tion kit. The big Cum­mins will also get a fuel sys­tem up­grade with an Air­dog 150 and In­dus­trial In­jec­tion 120% CP3 high-pres­sure fuel pump.

To make room for the larger turbo, the fac­tory turbo and ex­haust man­i­fold were re­moved as a com­plete assem­bly. The Fleece kit comes with a Steed Speed ex­haust man­i­fold, in­take tube, afe air fil­ter, mod­i­fied boost tube, down­pipe, in­stal­la­tion hard­ware and gas­kets. How­ever, the down­pipe did not fit the large tur­bine out­put of the Forced In­duc­tions turbo.

To get the sys­tem work­ing, Shoots welded a new out­let flange on the Fleece down­pipe, along with a cou­pler to match the 5-inch-di­am­e­ter ex­haust sys­tem that was al­ready in­stalled in Baker’s truck. He also had to take a cou­ple of inches off the boost tube be­cause the kit was de­signed for the pre­vi­ous body-style Dodge trucks; the mod­i­fied boost tube was also a lit­tle too long for this ap­pli­ca­tion.

Other than the rather mi­nor fab­ri­ca­tion men­tioned above, this seg­ment of the in­stal­la­tion was fairly un­event­ful and was re­ally just a mat­ter of swap­ping the old parts for the new high-per­for­mance parts. Next is­sue, we’ll in­stall the Air­dog fuel pump and wrap up th­ese 6.7L Cum­mins mod­i­fi­ca­tions, in­clud­ing the in­stal­la­tion of a set of Glow­shift gauges. Then it’s off to the dyno to see what the power com­bi­na­tion net­ted. UDBG

The 6.7L Cum­mins un­der the hood of Bran­don Baker’s 2011 Ram looks much bet­ter with a lot of the clut­ter re­moved and a big ol’ turbo hang­ing off the pas­sen­ger side!

While some mi­nor fab­ri­ca­tion was nec­es­sary, the Fleece Per­for­mance Engi­neer­ing in­stal­la­tion kit in­cluded every­thing needed to in­stall the big Forced In­duc­tions turbo on the Cum­mins.

1 This seg­ment of the in­stal­la­tion be­gan with Steven Shoots re­mov­ing the boost tube that con­nects the turbo out­let to the intercooler. Don’t throw away the boost tube—it needs to be sent back to Fleece Per­for­mance Engi­neer­ing for the core charge. 4 With the turbo and man­i­fold out of the way, in­stall the wa­ter block-off plug in the block (shown) and the heater hose. It is also a good time to make sure the head does not have any gas­ket ma­te­rial or ob­struc­tions around the ex­haust ports. Giv­ing them a quick scrub with a red 3M Scotch-brite pad works great to make sure they are clean.

2 While the cool­ing sys­tem is drain­ing, un­plug the turbo’s VGT har­ness and then dis­con­nect the oil and liq­uid cool­ing lines (see ar­rows) from the turbo car­tridge, as well as the V-band clamp on the tur­bine out­let. 5 Shoots uses a dou­ble-nut tech­nique to in­stall the studs in the Steed Speed machined ex­haust man­i­fold.

3 The turbo and ex­haust man­i­fold are heavy, but they can be re­moved from the en­gine as a single unit to make things faster and eas­ier. The rear ex­haust man­i­fold bolts have bands se­cur­ing the bolts that must be re­moved be­fore they can be loos­ened.

6 He mounts the Forced In­duc­tion turbo on the man­i­fold us­ing the new gas­ket sup­plied with the kit. He also clocks the hous­ings and cen­ter car­tridge for proper ori­en­ta­tion in the truck: The oil feed is on the top and the drain on the bot­tom, per­pen­dic­u­lar to the ground.

10&11 Rather than risk dam­ag­ing the new oil drain tube, Shoots in­stalls it af­ter the turbo is mounted. Be sure to in­stall the new gas­ket to make sure you don’t have any oil leaks. Shoots uses gas­ket sealant on the drain tube so that the gas­ket won’t stick to the turbo if it ever has to be re­moved.

8 Rather than try­ing to fight with the man­i­fold bolts and all six gas­kets while in­stalling the man­i­fold, Shoots in­stalls a few of the up­per man­i­fold bolts to hold it in place while he in­stalls the new gas­kets that are sup­plied with the FPE kit. He re­moves the top bolt, slides the gas­ket into po­si­tion as shown, and then re­in­stalls the bolt and ro­tates the gas­ket into proper po­si­tion be­fore in­stalling the lower bolt.

9 Us­ing thread sealant, in­stall the oil feed fit­ting on the top of the turbo car­tridge and con­nect the orig­i­nal oil feed line to the new tur­bocharger.

7 Michael Pow­ell lends a hand to get the big turbo and man­i­fold over the fender and into the en­gine bay.

12&13 To fit into the new body style Ram truck, the mod­i­fied boost tube in­cluded with the FPE kit had to be short­ened a few ad­di­tional inches be­fore it was in­stalled be­tween the turbo out­let and the intercooler. Be sure to leave the fac­tory bead on the end so that hoses do not pop off un­der high boost.

14 Shoots re­lo­cated the grid heater so­le­noid to the lower front part of the bat­tery tray so that the in­take tube would not short out against the ter­mi­nals. 18 Shoots welded a new flange onto the FPE down­pipe to work with the large S472 Forced In­duc­tions turbo.

20 The first step to swap­ping the CP3 high-pres­sure fuel pump on the Cum­mins is re­mov­ing the plas­tic ac­cess cover (see ar­row) on the front of the gear cover.

19 With the new in­let flange and mod­i­fi­ca­tions to the out­let mated with the ex­haust sys­tem Baker al­ready had on the truck, the down­pipe slid right into place.

15 The fac­tory sen­sors can then be in­stalled on the in­take tube be­fore it is in­stalled in the truck, us­ing the 45-de­gree cou­pler and the afe air fil­ter in­cluded with the Fleece in­stal­la­tion kit.

16&17 An adapter is in­stalled on the metal EGR coolant hose, which is then routed back into the cylin­der head, us­ing a barbed fit­ting and sil­i­con hose.

22&23 Next, Shoots in­stalls the gear lo­ca­tor on the CP3 gear (see ar­row) to pre­vent it from mov­ing out of po­si­tion while the old CP3 is re­moved and the new one is in­stalled. 26 Lubri­cate the O-ring on the CP3 snout and in­stall it in the stock lo­ca­tion us­ing the orig­i­nal mount­ing hard­ware. Then, re­con­nect the fuel lines and har­ness as they were orig­i­nally in­stalled.

25 Sit­ting side by side, the pumps look vir­tu­ally iden­ti­cal (aside from one be­ing used and one new), but its what’s in­side that counts; the in­ter­nal mod­i­fi­ca­tions on the In­dus­trial In­jec­tion pump al­low it to flow 120 per­cent more fuel than a stock pump.

24 Af­ter loos­en­ing the CP3 mount­ing bolts and dis­con­nect­ing the fuel lines and har­ness, Shoots snakes the pump out be­low the in­take el­bow.

21 Then, the nut and lock washer can be care­fully re­moved from the pump shaft. Make sure you do not drop ei­ther of them into the gear cover, or you will cre­ate a whole lot more work for your­self. Shoots uses a mag­net to make sure he doesn’t drop any­thing (see ar­row).

27 Shoots care­fully re­in­stalls the lock washer and nut on the CP3 and then tight­ens the nut to fac­tory specs with a torque wrench to make sure the gear does not spin on the shaft. 28 Don’t for­get to re­fill the cool­ing sys­tem. Pow­ell used a clean bucket to catch the orig­i­nal coolant. As a re­sult, he was able to sim­ply re­fill the sys­tem with the orig­i­nal coolant, be­cause truck owner Baker doesn’t have a ton of miles on the truck. If you are un­sure of the con­di­tion of the coolant, or if it has been in the en­gine for sev­eral years, this would be a good time to fill the sys­tem with new coolant.

29 Now this is what a per­for­mance Cum­mins should look like!

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