The Legacy Hawai­ian Heir­loom Jew­elry

Waikiki Magazine - - ISHOP - By Natalie Tarce PHOTO: COURTESY LAKI

The time­less beauty of Hawai­ian heir­loom jew­elry is en­hanced by a rich tra­di­tion that con­nects the wearer to Queen Lili‘uokalani, the Hawai­ian monar­chy and its close ties with Eng­land.

In 1862, news of the death of Prince Al­bert, Queen Vic­to­ria’s hus­band, reached Hawai‘i. Soon af­ter, mourn­ing jew­elry, which was gain­ing pop­u­lar­ity in Eng­land quickly caught on in the is­lands. High Chiefess Lili‘u Ka­maka‘eha (who later be­came Queen Lili‘uokalani) or­dered a gold bracelet in the style of tra­di­tional Vic­to­rian black-enam­eled mourn­ing jew­elry with the Hawai­ian phrase “Ho‘omana‘o Mau”

(Last­ing Re­mem- brance) and fea­tured de­signs that in­cluded feather capes to rep­re­sent Hawai­ian roy­alty. Th­ese com­bined styles crafted in gold with en­grav­ing and enamel in Old English script form the ba­sis for to­day’s Hawai­ian heir­loom jew­elry.

Con­tem­po­rary jewel­ers have em­braced the style adored by the Queen but have also made strides in mod­ern­iz­ing Hawai­ian jew­elry. The English in­flu­ence re­mains but is sub­tle and now bear de­signs that re­flect the Hawai­ian cul­ture.

Pop­u­lar jewel­ers in­clude Philip Rickard whose spe­cialty in­cludes Hawai­ian wed­ding rings and cus­tom­made ban­gles. Other stores to be found around Waikiki in­clude Na Hoku and Laki Hawai­ian De­sign. At Waikiki-based jew­eler Sa­cred Jew­els of Mu, each piece be­gins with draw­ings, which are mod­eled into a three-di­men­sional pro­gram for fur­ther re­fine­ment. A wax model is then crafted be­fore casts of gold or sil­ver are made. In keep­ing with the jew­elry en­grav­ing tra­di­tions from the Vic­to­rian era, master ar­ti­sans hand-fin­ish the en­grav­ing on each piece.

Hawai­ian heir­loom jew­elry has come a long way. What started as a re­flec­tion of one woman’s sen­ti­ment has evolved into a last­ing sym­bol of Hawai‘i’s monar­chy and a way for us to com­mem­o­rate sig­nif­i­cant mile­stones in our lives.

PHOTO: COURTESY LAKI

Laki Orig­i­nal 14K Di­a­mond Edge Rings in green and white gold, and pink and white gold (prices upon re­quest) Laki Orig­i­nal 14K pink gold 12mm ban­gle and 14K two-tone five plume­ria ban­gle bracelet (prices upon re­quest) Laki Hawai­ian De­sign Royal Hawai­ian Cen­ter 2201 Kalakaua Ave. (808) 923-2201

PHOTO: COURTESY PHILIP RICKARD

Philip Rickard Honolulu Ma Lama Col­lec­tion 14K white gold di­a­mond ring

with maile leaf de­sign (price upon

re­quest) Laki Orig­i­nal 14K two-tone

hi­bis­cus ring/14K yel­low and white gold com­bina

tion hi­bis­cus ring with di­a­mond (CZ avail­able) (price avail­able upon

re­quest) Philip Rickard Honolulu Nani Koki Col­lec­tion 14K mul­ti­color gold 18mm raised name bracelet with scrolls and plume­ria / hi­bis­cus flow­ers with di­a­monds (price upon re­quest)

Pick A Pearl Mul­ti­ple lo­ca­tions www.mauidivers.com/Ex­pe­ri­ence-Pick-A-Pearl

PHOTO: COURTESY PHILIP RICKARD PHOTO: COURTESY MAUI DIVERS

Philip Rickard Honolulu Pukalani Col­lec­tion 14K white

gold fil­i­gree pen­dant with

scrolls and hi­bis­cus flower

$1,308

Philip Rickard Royal Hawai­ian Cen­ter 2201 Kalakaua Ave.

(808) 923-2983 Maui Divers Jew­elry 14K yel­low-gold half­tube pen­dant in the large 10.6mm Plume­ria Scroll & Maile Leaf cutout de­sign $895 Maui Divers Jew­elry Mul­ti­ple lo­ca­tions www.mauidivers.com

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