GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL CALIBER 36 —
The company’s newest automatic movement embodies state-ofthe-art technology. A silicon hairspring helps assure the reliability of the rate and the functions. The caliber amasses a 100-hour power reserve and relies on an innovative self-winding system.
The silicon hairspring that Glashütte Original developed especially for Caliber 36 in collaboration with ETA and Nivarox helps assure the best rate performance. is waferthin spiral is not only unaffected by temperature fluctuations and magnetic fields, but also calculated to harmonize with the technical and constructive conditions found in Caliber 36. e hairspring needs no index or other adjustment mechanism for subsequent fine-tuning. Furthermore, the tiny spring oscillates with the utmost isochronism. If the rate should nonetheless require adjustment, a watchmaker can accomplish this by turning the four gold weight screws along the rim of the balance. e swan’s-neck spring, a characteristic detail in Glashütte’s movements, is used here to adjust only the beat (and not the active length of the hairspring). e ensemble of technical innovations enables Glashütte Original’s Caliber 36 to achieve a new standard of precision. is extraordinarily high degree of accuracy is further underscored by the fact that the manufacturer finely adjusts and tests the movement in six positions – one position more than is required by the usual chronometer test.
Last but not least, Glashütte Original debuts a technical innovation in the automatic winding system, which can now eliminate a conventional retaining pawl. To prevent the barrel from uncontrollably releasing its store of power, the polarizing gear train of the bidirectionally active automatic winding mechanism simultaneously performs a lock-
ing function. e interaction of two complexly constructed locking-wheel systems with star-shaped planet gears and pinions achieves two goals. First, it polarizes the motion of the bidirectionally winding rotor and transfers the energy to the barrel, and second, if the rotor is momentarily not winding the mainspring, one or the other of two systems blocks the barrel. e solution seems simple, but it contains a tricky constellation, which is why Glashütte Original does not reveal the construction of the polarizing gear train in detail.
On the other hand, no secrecy shrouds the hand-winding sequence from the crown wheel to the locking wheel on the barrel, which is plainly visible within the characteristically Glashütte-style three-quarter plate. e wheels are adorned with typical Glashütte sunburst decorations, while other components boast either circular graining or a striped pattern. We notice that the balance cock is no longer engraved, but continues the striped pattern of the threequarter plate and the skeletonized rotor.
A peek through the sapphire window in the caseback doesn’t lead you to suspect that the movement is inserted from above into the Senator’s case, where it is affixed via a kind of bayonet lock similar to the one used to attach a camera’s removable lens. Caliber 36 is fixed in place via three wings and then is screw fastened for good measure. is renders it shock resistant in accordance with the German industrial standard and enables it to emerge unscathed after a plunge from a height of one meter. e case had to be newly engineered and reworked to achieve this sturdiness. Incidentally, in addition to the rose-gold model we tested, the Senator Excellence is also available in two stainless-steel versions. e tripartite case of our rose-gold model joins polished and satin-finished parts. For security’s sake, the shiny sapphire crystal in the back is affixed with five titanium screws and the narrow stepped bezel is screwed with threads. e bezel is also shiny, while the middle part of the case is satin finished on its sides. Together with the polished lugs, the result is a consistent ensemble. e lugs accept a black Louisiana alligator leather strap, which is equipped with a rose-gold pin buckle. is strap and its clasp add to the watch’s sleek and simple elegance, which is most strongly expressed by the watch’s dial.
e curved sapphire crystal that has nonreflective coating on both sides protects the circular plane of the pale beige dial, which has silver granulate lacquering. e newly styled face has retained Roman numerals only at the 6 and the 12. Ten narrow black index strokes mark the remaining hours. ese strokes, like the railway-style minutes circle, are lasered into the dial and then electroplated. All of the black markings lie on a lower level, thus creating a very subtle threedimensional effect. Colorful accents are provided at 5-minute increments by Arabic numerals, which are inspired by their counterparts on antique pocketwatches and printed here in bright red. Further chromatic interest is added by the wellproportioned, blued poire hands. Together with the Roman numerals and the railway-style minutes circle, they continue the historical path of a classic timepiece, which otherwise has modern appeal. —