GLASHÜTTE ORIG­I­NAL CAL­IBER 36 —

WatchTime - - CLOSE-UP - The nu­mer­als, scales and hands re­call the past but are given mod­ern stag­ing.

The com­pany’s new­est au­to­matic move­ment em­bod­ies state-ofthe-art tech­nol­ogy. A sil­i­con hair­spring helps as­sure the re­li­a­bil­ity of the rate and the func­tions. The cal­iber amasses a 100-hour power re­serve and re­lies on an in­no­va­tive self-wind­ing sys­tem.

The sil­i­con hair­spring that Glashütte Orig­i­nal de­vel­oped espe­cially for Cal­iber 36 in col­lab­o­ra­tion with ETA and Ni­varox helps as­sure the best rate per­for­mance. is wafer­thin spi­ral is not only un­af­fected by tem­per­a­ture fluc­tu­a­tions and mag­netic fields, but also cal­cu­lated to har­mo­nize with the tech­ni­cal and con­struc­tive con­di­tions found in Cal­iber 36. e hair­spring needs no in­dex or other ad­just­ment mech­a­nism for sub­se­quent fine-tun­ing. Fur­ther­more, the tiny spring os­cil­lates with the ut­most isochro­nism. If the rate should nonethe­less re­quire ad­just­ment, a watch­maker can ac­com­plish this by turn­ing the four gold weight screws along the rim of the bal­ance. e swan’s-neck spring, a char­ac­ter­is­tic de­tail in Glashütte’s move­ments, is used here to ad­just only the beat (and not the ac­tive length of the hair­spring). e en­sem­ble of tech­ni­cal in­no­va­tions en­ables Glashütte Orig­i­nal’s Cal­iber 36 to achieve a new stan­dard of pre­ci­sion. is ex­traor­di­nar­ily high de­gree of ac­cu­racy is fur­ther un­der­scored by the fact that the man­u­fac­turer finely ad­justs and tests the move­ment in six po­si­tions – one po­si­tion more than is re­quired by the usual chronome­ter test.

Last but not least, Glashütte Orig­i­nal debuts a tech­ni­cal in­no­va­tion in the au­to­matic wind­ing sys­tem, which can now elim­i­nate a conventional re­tain­ing pawl. To pre­vent the bar­rel from un­con­trol­lably re­leas­ing its store of power, the po­lar­iz­ing gear train of the bidi­rec­tion­ally ac­tive au­to­matic wind­ing mech­a­nism si­mul­ta­ne­ously per­forms a lock-

ing func­tion. e in­ter­ac­tion of two com­plexly con­structed lock­ing-wheel sys­tems with star-shaped planet gears and pin­ions achieves two goals. First, it po­lar­izes the mo­tion of the bidi­rec­tion­ally wind­ing ro­tor and trans­fers the en­ergy to the bar­rel, and sec­ond, if the ro­tor is mo­men­tar­ily not wind­ing the main­spring, one or the other of two sys­tems blocks the bar­rel. e so­lu­tion seems sim­ple, but it con­tains a tricky con­stel­la­tion, which is why Glashütte Orig­i­nal does not re­veal the con­struc­tion of the po­lar­iz­ing gear train in de­tail.

On the other hand, no se­crecy shrouds the hand-wind­ing se­quence from the crown wheel to the lock­ing wheel on the bar­rel, which is plainly vis­i­ble within the char­ac­ter­is­ti­cally Glashütte-style three-quar­ter plate. e wheels are adorned with typ­i­cal Glashütte sun­burst dec­o­ra­tions, while other com­po­nents boast ei­ther cir­cu­lar grain­ing or a striped pat­tern. We no­tice that the bal­ance cock is no longer en­graved, but con­tin­ues the striped pat­tern of the three­quar­ter plate and the skele­tonized ro­tor.

A peek through the sap­phire win­dow in the case­back doesn’t lead you to sus­pect that the move­ment is in­serted from above into the Se­na­tor’s case, where it is af­fixed via a kind of bay­o­net lock sim­i­lar to the one used to at­tach a cam­era’s re­mov­able lens. Cal­iber 36 is fixed in place via three wings and then is screw fas­tened for good mea­sure. is ren­ders it shock re­sis­tant in ac­cor­dance with the Ger­man in­dus­trial stan­dard and en­ables it to emerge un­scathed after a plunge from a height of one me­ter. e case had to be newly engineered and re­worked to achieve this stur­di­ness. In­ci­den­tally, in ad­di­tion to the rose-gold model we tested, the Se­na­tor Ex­cel­lence is also avail­able in two stain­less-steel ver­sions. e tri­par­tite case of our rose-gold model joins pol­ished and satin-fin­ished parts. For se­cu­rity’s sake, the shiny sap­phire crys­tal in the back is af­fixed with five ti­ta­nium screws and the nar­row stepped bezel is screwed with threads. e bezel is also shiny, while the mid­dle part of the case is satin fin­ished on its sides. To­gether with the pol­ished lugs, the re­sult is a con­sis­tent en­sem­ble. e lugs ac­cept a black Louisiana al­li­ga­tor leather strap, which is equipped with a rose-gold pin buckle. is strap and its clasp add to the watch’s sleek and sim­ple el­e­gance, which is most strongly ex­pressed by the watch’s dial.

e curved sap­phire crys­tal that has non­re­flec­tive coat­ing on both sides pro­tects the cir­cu­lar plane of the pale beige dial, which has sil­ver gran­u­late lac­quer­ing. e newly styled face has re­tained Ro­man nu­mer­als only at the 6 and the 12. Ten nar­row black in­dex strokes mark the re­main­ing hours. ese strokes, like the rail­way-style min­utes cir­cle, are lasered into the dial and then elec­tro­plated. All of the black mark­ings lie on a lower level, thus cre­at­ing a very sub­tle three­d­i­men­sional ef­fect. Color­ful ac­cents are pro­vided at 5-minute in­cre­ments by Ara­bic nu­mer­als, which are in­spired by their coun­ter­parts on an­tique pock­et­watches and printed here in bright red. Fur­ther chro­matic in­ter­est is added by the well­pro­por­tioned, blued poire hands. To­gether with the Ro­man nu­mer­als and the rail­way-style min­utes cir­cle, they con­tinue the his­tor­i­cal path of a clas­sic time­piece, which oth­er­wise has mod­ern ap­peal. —

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