ORIS CAL­IBER 111 —

The hand-wound move­ment with its power re­serve of 10 days, a pro­pri­etary de­sign by Oris, marks the brand's re­turn as a move­ment man­u­fac­turer. It is pro­duced with as­sis­tance from Swiss part­ners.

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e large, fluted crown is easy to turn and pull when us­ing the quick-date or time set­ting (hack mech­a­nism pro­vided). If the watch is not wound for sev­eral days in a row, which is ab­so­lutely not a prob­lem, or if it hasn’t been worn for an ex­tended pe­riod of time, wind­ing the main­spring to the fully wound po­si­tion is a rather time-con­sum­ing process.

e tech­ni­cal ba­sis for the speed of the non-lin­ear power-re­serve in­di­ca­tor are the two ec­cen­tri­cally ar­ranged, snail-shaped wheels that turn counter to one an­other so that the hand moves at the proper speed. For the de­sign of this spe­cial dis­play, in con­nec­tion with the 10-day power re­serve, Oris col­lab­o­rated with the tech­ni­cal school in Le Lo­cle for 10 years. ere were also a num­ber of im­prove­ments made from Cal­iber 110 to Cal­iber 111. “Struc­turally it is still the same, but it is a com­pletely dif­fer­ent move­ment,” said Beat Fis­chli, the COO at Oris. is is due pri­mar­ily to the fact that the 111 is be­ing pro­duced us­ing in­dus­trial meth­ods and no longer by hand. Plus, Oris is work­ing with more than 20 in­de­pen­dent part­ners who equip the ma­jor lux­ury brands but have no af­fil­i­a­tion to any larger group, which is why Fis­chli does not cite them by name. “e Cal 111 is 100-per­cent

Swiss made,” he says. In or­der to reg­u­late the force in the watch move­ment be­tween a sin­gle large bar­rel and small bal­ance wheel, the en­ergy source was fur­ther op­ti­mized. e bar­rel it­self re­mains the same but the di­am­e­ter and num­ber of coils of the 1.80-me­ter main­spring were al­tered. “is re­sulted in a torque re­duc­tion that greatly im­proved the rate per­for­mance,” Fis­chli re­ports.

The move­ment’s large bar­rel con­trasts with its small bal­ance wheel; the spe­cial dif­fer­en­tial trans­mis­sion for the power-re­serve dis­play can be seen be­neath the bar­rel.

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