ORIS CALIBER 111 —
The hand-wound movement with its power reserve of 10 days, a proprietary design by Oris, marks the brand's return as a movement manufacturer. It is produced with assistance from Swiss partners.
e large, fluted crown is easy to turn and pull when using the quick-date or time setting (hack mechanism provided). If the watch is not wound for several days in a row, which is absolutely not a problem, or if it hasn’t been worn for an extended period of time, winding the mainspring to the fully wound position is a rather time-consuming process.
e technical basis for the speed of the non-linear power-reserve indicator are the two eccentrically arranged, snail-shaped wheels that turn counter to one another so that the hand moves at the proper speed. For the design of this special display, in connection with the 10-day power reserve, Oris collaborated with the technical school in Le Locle for 10 years. ere were also a number of improvements made from Caliber 110 to Caliber 111. “Structurally it is still the same, but it is a completely different movement,” said Beat Fischli, the COO at Oris. is is due primarily to the fact that the 111 is being produced using industrial methods and no longer by hand. Plus, Oris is working with more than 20 independent partners who equip the major luxury brands but have no affiliation to any larger group, which is why Fischli does not cite them by name. “e Cal 111 is 100-percent
Swiss made,” he says. In order to regulate the force in the watch movement between a single large barrel and small balance wheel, the energy source was further optimized. e barrel itself remains the same but the diameter and number of coils of the 1.80-meter mainspring were altered. “is resulted in a torque reduction that greatly improved the rate performance,” Fischli reports.
The movement’s large barrel contrasts with its small balance wheel; the special differential transmission for the power-reserve display can be seen beneath the barrel.