LONGINES

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The brand from Saint-imier in Switzer­land’s Jura Re­gion is a Swatch Group sub­sidiary with an espe­cially good price-per­for­mance ra­tio. Longines’ self-wind­ing watches have prices start­ing at around $1,100. The la­bel’s au­to­matic chrono­graphs are avail­able for around $1,600 and up. Founded in 1832, Longines is a gen­uinely tra­di­tional watch man­u­fac­turer. But this brand no longer makes its own move­ments; in­stead, it uses cal­ibers that its fel­low Swatch Group mem­ber ETA man­u­fac­tures ei­ther in large se­ries or ex­clu­sively for Longines. read im­por­tant in­for­ma­tion, such as the flight time of a mor­tar’s grenade, from the sec­onds sub­dial. But to­day the small sec­onds hand merely con­firms that the watch is still run­ning. A date dis­play is a “must” for many cus­tomers, so many watch man­u­fac­tur­ers pro­vide it – de­spite the fact that it wasn’t on the orig­i­nal model.

But in all other re­spects, the Her­itage Mil­i­tary is an at­trac­tive watch that’s read­ily leg­i­ble night and day and of­fers both a stop-sec­onds func­tion and a rapid-re­set mech­a­nism for the date dis­play. ese two use­ful in­di­ca­tors are vi­able and fairly com­mon thanks to con­tem­po­rary move­ment tech­nol­ogy, but they weren’t an op­tion for own­ers of yes­ter­year’s wrist­watches.

Au­to­matic Cal­iber ETA 2895 does its duty be­hind a mas­sive stain­less-steel case­back bear­ing sim­ple en­grav­ings: its name and num­ber. e move­ment keeps time with the prover­bial punc­tu­al­ity of a Prus­sian soldier. e av­er­age daily de­vi­a­tion was a slight gain of 1.7 sec­onds on the tim­ing ma­chine and an even smaller daily loss of just 0.5 sec­ond on the wrist. Only the 9 sec­onds of dif­fer­ence among the sev­eral po­si­tions can de­tract a bit from the dis­ci­plined im­pres­sion made by the Her­itage Mil­i­tary.

e only de­tail that doesn’t look his­tor­i­cally mil­i­tary is the watch’s al­li­ga­tor leather strap. But then again, a touch of el­e­gance is al­ways wel­come, even when it spruces up a soldier’s ap­pear­ance.

The small sec­onds sub­dial was lo­cated in the cor­rect po­si­tion 100 years ago.

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