Patek Philippe —
— Each Baselworld brings a long parade of new models from the grande dame of Geneva, Patek Philippe. is year’s highlights included
• Ref. 5320 G, a perpetual calendar styled in a mode Patek calls “contemporary vintage.” e watch’s dial layout will be familiar to Patek fans (the company has been using it since 1941): day/month aperture at 12 o’clock and a subdial for the analog date and moonphases at 6. What’s new are the two small round windows for the day/night indicator and the leap-year cycle. Inspired by Patek Philippe watches from the 1940s and ’50s, Ref. 5320 has a cream-colored dial with oldtime Arabic numerals made of gold and three-tiered lugs. e hands and numerals are luminous. e movement is the selfwinding Caliber 324 SQ. e case is white gold and 40 mm in diameter. e caseback is interchangeable: A solid back can be swapped for a transparent sapphire one. Price: $82,784.
• A new, larger version of the Aquanaut in honor of the model’s 20th anniversary. e new model, Ref. 5168, is 42.2 mm measured
from 10 o’clock to 4 o’clock (versus 40 mm for the existing men’s Aquanaut, Ref. 5167). e case is white gold and fitted with a sapphire back. It is water resistant to 120 meters. e dial is gradated from blue at the center to black at the edge and embossed with the longitude and latitude-like lines seen on other Aquanauts. e movement is the self-winding 324 SC. e strap is made of a composite material and has a folding clasp. Price: $38,557.
• Two new versions of Ref. 5960, which pairs an annual calendar with a flyback chronograph. One is Ref. 5960/1A ($51,031), which has a steel case and bracelet. Like all 5960 models, it is powered by the self-winding Caliber 28-520 IRM QA 24H. ree apertures along an arc in the top part of dial show the day, date and month. At 6 o’clock there is a monocounter that tracks up to 60 elapsed minutes and 12 elapsed hours. e chronograph has a vertical disk clutch, which produces less wear than a horizontal coupling mechanism. For that reason, the chronograph seconds hand can double as a running seconds hand; there’s no need for a subsidiary seconds hand. e watch has a day/night indicator inside the monocounter and a power-reserve indicator under the date at 12 o’clock. e movement’s power reserve is 45 to 55 hours. Patek also unveiled Ref. 5960/01 ($65,774), a 5960 variation with a white-gold case, blue dial and brown leather stitching. Both watches are 40.5 mm in diameter.
• A new variation of the Ref. 5396 annual calendar. It features a rose-gold case, blue sunburst dial and blue strap. ere’s a model with baguette-diamond hour markers (Ref. 5396R-015, $53,299) and one with gold hour markers (5396R-014, $47,970). e 5396, 38.5 mm in diameter, is powered by Caliber 324 S QA LU 24H/303, which in addition to its full annual calendar has 24-hour and moon-phase displays.
• e first platinum-case version of the 5170 manual-wind chronograph. e new variation (Ref. 5170P-001) has a blue sunburst dial gradated to black at the edge and an alligator strap. e hour markers are baguette diamonds. e case is 39.4 mm in diameter and has a sapphire caseback. e movement is the CH 29-535 PS. Price: $96,392.
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5168G-001 in white gold Patek Philippe annual calendar chronograph Ref. 5960/1A-010 in stainless steel
Patek Philippe perpetual calendar Ref. 5320G-001 in white gold
Patek Philippe annual calendar Ref. 5396R-014 in rose gold
Patek Philippe chronograph Ref. 5170P-001 in platinum