TIME TOOLS

The phrase “tool watch” was orig­i­nally coined to de­scribe watches that serve as tools to ac­com­plish spe­cific tasks, such as a divers’ watch with a ro­tat­able bezel and high re­sis­tance to pres­sure that is de­signed to be used un­der­wa­ter. And while you wouldn

WatchTime - - PORTFOLIO - — by Jens Koch —

ORIS BIG CROWN PROPI­LOT DATE $1,550

This pi­lots’ watch from Oris achieves op­ti­mal leg­i­bil­ity thanks to its matte dial and im­pos­si­ble-to-over­look hands and nu­mer­als, which are coated with plenty of lu­mi­nous ma­te­rial. The big crown can be op­er­ated while wear­ing gloves. The tex­tile strap is step­lessly ad­justable thanks to a clamp­ing sys­tem; the clasp works like the buckle on a seat­belt aboard an air­craft. With a date dis­play on its dial and a time­tested au­to­matic move­ment in­side its case, this watch of­fers ev­ery­thing you need. Stain­less steel, 41 mm, Sel­lita SW 220, au­to­matic

TU­DOR PELAGOS LHD $4,400

The let­ters “LHD” in the name of this divers’ watch stand for “left-hand drive,” like a car with its steer­ing wheel on the left. For a watch, LHD means that the crown is lo­cated op­po­site its usual po­si­tion. This is con­ve­nient for a south­paw who wears the watch on his right wrist. But this watch can also be worn on the left wrist, thus keep­ing the crown espe­cially well pro­tected against im­pacts. Tu­dor’s own au­to­matic move­ment has earned a chronome­ter cer­tifi­cate and ac­cord­ingly runs with great pre­ci­sion. The ti­ta­nium case is ex­tremely re­sis­tant to salt­wa­ter and can re­sist wa­ter pres­sure to a depth of 500 me­ters. A he­li­um­re­lease valve rounds out the pro­fes­sional equip­ment. Ti­ta­nium, 42 mm, man­u­fac­ture Cal­iber MT5612, au­to­matic

CERTINA DS AC­TION DIVER AU­TO­MATIC $895

The DS Ac­tion Diver Au­to­matic up­holds the ISO stan­dard for divers’ watches. The stain­less- steel case is wa­ter re­sis­tant to 200 me­ters and has a ro­tat­able bezel with a div­ing scale. The dial has lu­mi­nous in­dexes, along with plenty of lu­mi­nous ma­te­rial on the hands to as­sure that the face is al­ways clearly leg­i­ble, even un­der­wa­ter and in the dark. The time-tested au­to­matic move­ment and the ro­bust stain­less-steel bracelet equip this time­piece for ev­ery mis­sion. The price is ap­peal­ing, too. Stain­less steel, 43.2 mm, ETA 2824, au­to­matic

SEIKO PROSPEX AU­TO­MATIC DIVER’S $495

Nick­named “Tur­tle” be­cause of the shape of its case, the Prospex Au­to­matic Diver’s was in­tro­duced in the 1970s. With an in­de­struc­tible ure­thane wrist­band, a case that re­sists wa­ter pres­sure to a depth of 200 me­ters, and a uni­di­rec­tional ro­tat­able bezel, this watch is op­ti­mally equipped to ac­com­pany a diver un­der­wa­ter. And de­spite its low price, it has a self­wind­ing man­u­fac­ture move­ment. Seiko makes the crys­tal from Hardlex, which isn’t quite as scratchre­sis­tant as sap­phire, but nonethe­less harder than or­di­nary min­eral crys­tal. Stain­less steel, 44 mm, man­u­fac­ture Cal­iber 4R36, au­to­matic

TAG HEUER AQUARACER 300M CAL­I­BRE 5 $2,800

This clas­sic divers’ watch from TAG Heuer has a trendy mil­i­tary look with a black ti­ta­nium case, sand-col­ored tex­tile strap, and sand-col­ored el­e­ments and gray lu­mi­nous ma­te­rial on the dial. The watch has plenty to of­fer from a func­tional stand­point, too: Black ti­ta­nium-car­bide coat­ing re­sists scratches and the screwed crown con­trib­utes to­ward achiev­ing pres­sure re­sis­tance to a depth of 300 me­ters. The non­re­flec­tive treat­ment on the sap­phire crys­tal helps as­sure good leg­i­bil­ity. Ti­ta­nium coated with ti­ta­nium car­bide, 43 mm, ETA 2824 or Sel­lita SW 200, au­to­matic

BRE­ITLING ALPINER 4 AU­TO­MATIC $5,105

The mil­i­tar­ily in­spired Avenger Black­bird has a dis­tinc­tive 48-mm case made of Dlc-coated ti­ta­nium. The coat­ing helps pre­vent re­flec­tions from light, which could be­tray its wearer’s lo­ca­tion. With a uni­di­rec­tional ro­tat­able bezel, screwed crown, and wa­ter re­sis­tance to 300 me­ters, this time­piece is also suit­able for div­ing. In ad­di­tion to the case, the dial and tex­tile strap are also black. The lu­mi­nous ma­te­rial on the hands and in­dexes is beige in day­light con­di­tions. Bre­itling’s Cal­iber 17 is based on an ETA 2824 move­ment and has earned a chronome­ter cer­tifi­cate to con­firm its ac­cu­racy. Dlc-coated ti­ta­nium, 48 mm, ETA 2824, au­to­matic

ROLEX EX­PLORER II $8,100

This watch, which de­buted in 1971, is made for ad­ven­tur­ers, re­searchers and ex­pe­di­tion mem­bers. Equipped with a sec­ond time zone, the con­tin­u­ally up­dated de­sign has be­come iconic. This model epit­o­mizes a tool watch, al­though its high price might make its wearer feel an­noyed if the case should suf­fer a scratch or two. The 904L stain­less steel that Rolex uses is more re­sis­tant to salt­wa­ter than or­di­nary 316L steel. And Rolex’s

man­u­fac­ture cal­iber is re­garded as the stur­di­est and low­est-main­te­nance au­to­matic move­ment. Rolex’s fa­mous ac­cu­racy is as­sured not only by a chronome­ter cer­tifi­cate, but also by the brand’s in-house stan­dards, which spec­ify that the watch be so finely ad­justed that it nei­ther gains nor loses more than 2 sec­onds per day. Stain­less steel, 42 mm, man­u­fac­ture Cal­iber 3187, au­to­matic

ALPINA ALPINER 4 AU­TO­MATIC $1,395

De­vel­oped for rugged ex­cur­sions and moun­tain climb­ing, the Alpiner 4 is equipped with a sturdy, 44-mm stain­less-steel case and a uni­di­rec­tional ro­tat­able bezel. A soft-iron in­ner case pro­tects the au­to­matic move­ment against mag­netic fields. The hands and in­dexes are coated with white lu­mi­nous ma­te­rial for good leg­i­bil­ity. The screwed crown helps keep the case wa­ter re­sis­tant to 100 me­ters. Stain­less steel, 44 mm, Sel­lita SW 200, au­to­matic

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