Kari Vouti­laine n

WatchTime - - Sihh 2018 - The New Watches -

— Fresh off a col­lab­o­ra­tion with Ar­min Strom, Kari Vouti­lainen in­tro­duced the 217QRS at SIHH 2018. In­spired by the Fin­nish watch­maker’s Vingt-8 move­ment, the in-house cal­iber at the heart of the time­piece rep­re­sents Vouti­lainen at his ab­so­lute best. One of the ma­jor high­lights here is the ret­ro­grade date that is in­te­grated di­rectly into the main­plate. To set the date, all you have to do is press the crown down, mov­ing the date hand a day. On the fi­nal day of the month, the date hand uses a spe­cial mech­a­nism de­signed by Vouti­lainen to move the date hand back to day one with­out bounc­ing out of sync on ar­rival. At­tached to the ex­tra-large bal­ance wheel is a bal­ance spring that uses a Phillips over­coil on its ex­te­rior and a Gross­mann curve on its in­te­rior. e es­cape­ment also boasts a world first by us­ing two es­cape­ment wheels in this con­fig­u­ra­tion. By us­ing two wheels rather than one, it pro­vides a di­rect im­pulse to the bal­ance through the jew­els. is uti­lizes much less en­ergy than tra­di­tional lever es­cape­ments, which should al­low for greater longevity be­tween ser­vice in­ter­vals.

As with any Vouti­lainen time­piece, all the fin­ish­ing here is done by hand and is un­matched in its qual­ity. e 39-mm wrist­watch comes in a to­tal series of 30 watches: 10 in plat­inum, 10 in white gold, and 10 in rose gold. e plat­inum model is priced at CHF 128,000 and the gold ver­sions are CHF 118,000.

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