Re­build­ing His­tory —

WatchTime - - Watch talk -

— Omega made its first chrono­graph wrist­watch in 1913, dur­ing that tran­si­tional era of time­keep­ing his­tory when pocket watches were be­gin­ning to fall out of fash­ion in fa­vor of the newly as­cen­dant wrist­watches. Over the sum­mer, the Bi­enne-based man­u­fac­ture an­nounced the mile­stone launch of 18 his­tor­i­cally in­flu­enced time­pieces, de­signed to chan­nel the look of the 1913 orig­i­nal and out­fit­ted with re­fur­bished move­ments from that by­gone era. The First Omega Wrist-chrono­graph Lim­ited Edi­tion is un­mis­tak­ably an homage to the early 20th-cen­tury piece, a fa­vorite of mil­i­tary pi­lots dur­ing World War I, with its pock­et­watch-sized 47.5-mm round case made of 18k white gold; its avi­a­tion-style riv­eted leather strap; and its white grand feu enamel dial, swept over by vin­tage-style “Em­pire” hands and mark­ing the hours with hol­lowed out Ara­bic nu­mer­als in a pe­riod-ap­pro­pri­ate font. Its bi-com­pax de­sign fea­tures a sub­dial at 9 o’clock for run­ning sec­onds and an­other sub­dial at 3 o’clock with a now-rare 15-minute chrono­graph counter, a type pop­u­lar among pi­lots at the time. As a nod to Omega’s more mod­ern in­no­va­tions, the brand’s pro­pri­etary Sedna gold is used for the crown and the chrono­graph pusher, the lat­ter en­sconced at the 6 o’clock po­si­tion.

Even more in­trigu­ing to vin­tage watch afi­ciona­dos is the move­ment on the inside, which can be ad­mired through a sap­phire win­dow un­der a hatched case­back: the 18 ‘CHRO cal­iber. Used in the very first wrist-borne chrono­graph made by Omega, it was a renowned and pop­u­lar stop­watch move­ment that re­mained in pro­duc­tion for more than two decades. e 18 spec­i­mens used to build this ex­tremely lim­ited se­ries of mod­ern watches had rested for years in the vaults of the com­pany’s mu­seum. Ex­pert watch­mak­ers at Omega’s Ate­lier Tour­bil­lon painstak­ingly re­built and re­fin­ished the vin­tage move­ments, in­clud­ing hav­ing to re-cre­ate com­po­nents from scratch, in or­der to bring them to mod­ern stan­dards of top-shelf haute hor­logerie.

Each of the 18 watches is pre­sented in a hand­crafted leather­bound trunk, along with two ad­di­tional leather straps, one in bur­gundy tone, the other in “golden brown novon­appa;” spe­cial strap-chang­ing tools; a loupe and a travel pouch. e price for this rare and exclusive en­sem­ble – and your chance to own a true touch­stone in watch­mak­ing his­tory – is 120,000 Swiss francs.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from USA

© PressReader. All rights reserved.