RE­DUCED TO THE MAX

WatchTime - - Close-up -

The in­ven­tion of the mi­cro-ro­tor (or plan­e­tary ro­tor) in the 1950s was a crit­i­cal step to mak­ing au­to­matic watch move­ments sig­nif­i­cantly thin­ner and, there­fore, watch cases more el­e­gant. But the re­duced ro­tor weight oc­ca­sion­ally proved prob­lem­atic in terms of wind­ing ef­fi­ciency, which is why mod­ern mi­cro-ro­tor move­ments usu­ally use bi-di­rec­tional wind­ing sys­tems along with heav­ier met­als for the os­cil­lat­ing weight. Next to the re­duced height that a mi­cro-ro­tor (or a de­cen­tral­ized os­cil­lat­ing weight) of­fers, the wearer can po­ten­tially also ben­e­fit from an un­ob­structed view of the move­ment. So if a watch­maker wanted to de­velop an ul­tra-thin watch move­ment, a man­ual-wind move­ment (which was used in the Octo Finis­simo Tour­bil­lon in 2014) would be the log­i­cal choice, fol­lowed by a mi­cro-ro­tor (as can be found in the Bulgari Octo Finis­simo Au­to­matic) for more com­fort and ul­ti­mately would end up with the quest for a pe­riph­eral ro­tor, if an ad­di­tional com­pli­ca­tion like a tour­bil­lon had to be added again. Which is not only why the de­vel­op­ment of the BVL 288 with fly­ing tour­bil­lon took three years, but also why the man­ual ver­sion and the stan­dard au­to­matic came first. Bulgari Watches Manag­ing Di­rec­tor Guido Ter­reni says, “The move­ment de­vel­op­ment took three years; the case was quicker be­cause we al­ready had the ex­pe­ri­ence [from the man­ual-wind tour­bil­lon].” Still, Bulgari had to de­velop about 150 new com­po­nents of the to­tal of 288 parts for the move­ment.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from USA

© PressReader. All rights reserved.