BRONZE & CAMO

The lim­ited-edi­tion Anon­imo Mil­itare Alpini com­bines a bronze case, a cam­ou­flage guil­loché dial and a be­spoke mod­u­lar chrono­graph move­ment in a time­piece that walks the line be­tween mil­i­tary machismo and sporty el­e­gance.

WatchTime - - Table Of Contents - By Mark Ber­nado

| e lim­ited-edi­tion Anon­imo Mil­itare Alpini com­bines a bronze case, a cam­ou­flage guil­loché dial and a be­spoke mod­u­lar chrono­graph move­ment.

— When I think of Anon­imo, par­tic­u­larly its lineup of bronze-cased watches, I can’t help but be re­minded of the old Bar­bara Man­drell song, “I Was Coun­try When Coun­try Wasn’t Cool.” Be­cause Anon­imo was do­ing bronze long be­fore it be­came the hot new case ma­te­rial in the horo­log­i­cal world – be­fore Tu­dor, be­fore Hublot, be­fore Mont­blanc, and no­tably be­fore the brand to which it has been most of­ten held up for com­par­i­son, Panerai (the lat­ter, not to­tally un­justly: Anon­imo was estab­lished in Panerai’s home­town of Florence in 1997 – af­ter Panerai was ac­quired by the Vendôme Group and packed up for Switzer­land – by a team that in­cluded Panerai CEO Dino Zei, and in its early days show­cased de­signs very sim­i­lar to Panerai’s).

When new own­ers ac­quired Anon­imo in 2013, the brand opted to pare down its port­fo­lio to two ma­jor col­lec­tions, Mil­itare and Nau­tilo (re­cently joined by a third, the thin­ner, el­e­gant Epu­rato), re­tain­ing some, but not all, of the tech­ni­cal fea­tures and aes­thetic key­stones that de­fined its early mod­els, as well as adding a few new ones. From the Mil­itare col­lec­tion comes the lim­ited-edi­tion, cam­ou­flage-di­aled model that I re­view here, the Mil­itare Alpini Cam­ou­flage Khaki Lim­ited Edi­tion, which pro­vides a great showcase for many Anon­imo stylis­tic hall­marks, old and new – not to men­tion be­ing a re­ally sharplook­ing, undeniably mas­cu­line, sports-lux­ury chrono­graph.

Anon­imo has al­ways been known for large, thick, cush­ion­shaped cases, and this one is no ex­cep­tion, mea­sur­ing 43.4 mm in di­am­e­ter and 14.5 mm thick. All the ma­jor parts – in­clud­ing the raised coin-edge sta­tion­ary bezel, the top­mounted, notched crown and the pedal-like chrono­graph push­ers with their grooved in­serts – are made of a bronze al­loy, with the ex­cep­tion of the case­back. At­tached to the main case body by six screws and dec­o­rated with a re­lief en­grav­ing of the Mat­ter­horn (the Alpine moun­tain that strad­dles the bor­der be­tween Switzer­land and Italy, thus lend­ing this watch its “Alpini” sur­name), the back is made of solid, non-al­ler­genic ti­ta­nium, by now a fairly com­mon choice for bronze watches, as bronze’s ten­dency to de­velop a patina – one of the traits that has en­deared the ma­te­rial to to­day’s vin­tage-ob­sessed watch fans – would be less en­dear­ing were it to be per­mit­ted to turn one’s wrist green. (Patina is nice on me­tal, not so much on skin.)

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