LAST BITE

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There is some­thing be­yond nos­tal­gic about the combo of gra­ham crack­ers, cho­co­late and toasted marsh­mal­lows we call s’mores. It’s a fla­vor so beloved that ev­ery­thing from ice cream to PopTarts is given the s’mores treat­ment. Even restau­rants roll out fan­ci­fied ver­sions. At Prim­itvo (p. 23) chef Eric Labouchere fol­lows the K.I.S.S. (keep it sim­ple, silly) prin­ci­ple for his s’mores, with one re­mark­able wink: Gi­ant marsh­mal­lows are charred on the same open-flame grill where beef is cooked, mean­ing the marsh­mal­lows come away crispy, gooey and with a wee hint of bee­fi­ness. The end re­sult, which ar­rives at the ta­ble on huge skew­ers, is a stun­ner. Don’t be sur­prised if you want … some more.

Prim­i­tivo

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