There is something beyond nostalgic about the combo of graham crackers, chocolate and toasted marshmallows we call s’mores. It’s a flavor so beloved that everything from ice cream to PopTarts is given the s’mores treatment. Even restaurants roll out fancified versions. At Primitvo (p. 23) chef Eric Labouchere follows the K.I.S.S. (keep it simple, silly) principle for his s’mores, with one remarkable wink: Giant marshmallows are charred on the same open-flame grill where beef is cooked, meaning the marshmallows come away crispy, gooey and with a wee hint of beefiness. The end result, which arrives at the table on huge skewers, is a stunner. Don’t be surprised if you want … some more.