Turn the stretcher and rung


1 Dry-as­sem­ble the legs and seat, ro­tat­ing two rung holes to face each other. Mea­sure for the rung [Photo L] and cut it to length from a 11∕2×11∕2" blank. Drill a 3∕4" hole 3∕4" deep cen­tered on one face.

2 Turn the rung round, then turn a tenon on each end [Drawing 3], check­ing the fit into the legs. Mark the cen­ter­line of the rung, and form an ogee to one end. Use a con­tour gauge to help you cre­ate an iden­ti­cal pro­file on the other end. 3 Dry-as­sem­ble the seat, legs, and rung, mea­sure for the stretcher [Photo M], and cut it to length from a 11∕2×11∕2" blank. 4 Turn the stretcher round, shape a tenon on each end (note the dif­fer­ing lengths) [Drawing 4], then mark the cen­ter­line be­tween the tenons. Lay out the pro­file di­men­sions shown, and turn the pro­file as you did for the legs: Form the Vs, shape the cove be­tween them, roll the half bead into the V, then form the ogee to the tenon. Fin­ish-sand the stretcher.

5 Glue up the stool by as­sem­bling the stretcher, rung, and legs. Im­me­di­ately glue this assem­bly to the seat, mak­ing sure the legs are fully in­serted into the mor­tises. With the stool rest­ing on its seat, place a scrap of ply­wood on the ends of the legs and weight it. Then wrap the legs with a strap clamp. 6 Af­ter the glue dries, ap­ply a fin­ish. (We used three coats of Gen­eral Fin­ishes Arm-R-Seal.)

M As you did for the rung, use two dow­els to mea­sure for the length of the stretcher. Pro­duced by Craig Ruegseg­ger with Brian Sim­mons Project de­sign: Brian Sim­mons Il­lus­tra­tions: Lorna John­son

L Se­cure two dow­els with a rub­ber band and ex­tend them to the bot­tom of the leg holes. Tape the dow­els to lock them to­gether, then re­move a leg to re­move your mea­sur­ing stick.

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