De­ciem Up­date: Man­u­fac­tur­ing, Sephora And Re­tail De­vel­op­ments

WWD Digital Daily - - News - BY AL­LI­SON COLLINS

De­ciem is of­fi­cially out at Sephora, WWD has learned.

“The Or­di­nary is no longer avail­able at Sephora,” a Sephora spokes­woman con­firmed in an e-mailed state­ment to WWD. “While it is dis­ap­point­ing that De­ciem has de­cided to change di­rec­tion, we re­main com­mit­ted to evolv­ing our unrivaled range of skin- care prod­ucts to meet the needs of our clients.”

Ru­mors have been swirling about the brand’s exit from the re­tailer for weeks — and about its even­tual en­trance into Ulta Beauty, which sources said has been planned for 2019. De­ciem launched The Or­di­nary with Sephora in De­cem­ber, with plans to start on­line and grad­u­ally mi­grate into stores with the brand, and po­ten­tially some of its other brands, founder Bran­don Tru­axe pre­vi­ously told WWD. Com­ments on In­sta­gram from the De­ciem ac­count in­di­cated the brand would exit Sephora and en­ter Dou­glas in Europe and Ulta Beauty. Ulta de­clined to com­ment on a po­ten­tial part­ner­ship with the brand, or on tim­ing.

De­ciem is still chug­ging along on the busi­ness front, de­spite an er­ratic se­ries of events over the past few months.

Those hap­pen­ings have in­cluded In­sta­gram up­dates from Tru­axe on chang­ing his ti­tle to “worker,” and the firing of co-chief ex­ec­u­tive of­fi­cer Ni­cola Kil­ner in Fe­bru­ary. In re­cent weeks, e-mails from Tru­axe have gone out to groups of peo­ple, in­clud­ing press, ex­ec­u­tives at the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc., De­ciem em­ploy­ees and oth­ers, with sub­jects that range from De­ciem to men­tal health to drugs.

One of the e-mails was posted to the

De­ciem web site but ap­pears to have been re­moved. Tru­axe was not avail­able to com­ment for this story.

Ac­cord­ing to sources, the com­pany’s

Fifth Av­enue store — orig­i­nally part of a plan to open 10 U.S. stores in 2018 — is slated to open later this month. Other stores, on New York’s Prince Street, West Broad­way, Up­per West Side, Brook­lyn and in Mi­ami, have al­ready opened. The busi­ness also con­tin­ues to ex­pand in­ter­na­tion­ally, and has teased a new brand, Aves­tan, which is slated to launch in the fall.

Later this sum­mer, the Toronto team will move into a new head­quar­ters, which is un­der con­struc­tion, ac­cord­ing to a source.

De­ciem has also opened a new fac­tory and ware­house fa­cil­ity, a source told WWD, which are now fully op­er­a­tional. Those plants are ex­pected to help De­ciem fill more or­ders — some­thing it has strug­gled with in the past be­cause of its ex­plo­sive growth rate.

The busi­ness was on track to do be­tween $120 mil­lion and $150 mil­lion in sales for 2017, Tru­axe told WWD in De­cem­ber, but with the U.S. launch, that num­ber was ex­pected to, at a min­i­mum, dou­ble for 2018.

The busi­ness is backed by the Estée Lauder Cos., which took a 28 per­cent stake in June. Lauder did not com­ment on De­ciem’s cur­rent re­tail plans or Tru­axe’s e-mails, but a spokes­woman gave WWD a state­ment say­ing, “The Estée Lauder Cos. is a mi­nor­ity in­vestor in De­ciem and as such, we are not in­volved in the com­pany’s day-to-day op­er­a­tions. We have seen the po­ten­tial in this brand and its in­no­va­tion ca­pa­bil­i­ties.”

The brand’s new fac­tory and ware­house are now fully op­er­a­tional, WWD has learned.

A look at De­ciem’s Toronto store.

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