Ice­berg

WWD Digital Daily - - The Reviews -

Creative di­rec­tor James Long is tak­ing the Ice­berg show on the road, with Lon­don be­ing his first stop out­side Italy and fu­ture plans for New York and Tokyo. His Lon­don show, which popped and fizzed with colors in­spired by en­ergy drinks, car­toon strips and sea­side club­bers in Nineties Ri­mini, un­folded on the eve of Lon­don Fash­ion Week Men’s, which starts Satur­day and runs through Mon­day.

Long set Lon­don men’s on the right path with his high-en­ergy brand of

Ital­ian street luxe for a new gen­er­a­tion. He parked Snoopy, Wood­stock, Char­lie Brown and the Pink Pan­ther — all the faces that orig­i­nally made Ice­berg’s name in the Eight­ies — on knits, hood­ies and turtle­necks in punchy shades of cobalt blue, bub­ble gum and flu­o­res­cent mint green.

Lan­guid track­suits, tops, boxy shirts and trousers came in a mix of techno fab­rics, triple-printed denim and 3-D knits, and were cov­ered in it­er­a­tions of the brand’s logo, while zip-front sweaters flashed with checker­board mo­tor rac­ing pat­terns. Long showed part of his women’s spring 2019 pre- col­lec­tion, too: It was sim­i­lar, but with more flesh on show and a slick of se­quins on leather jack­ets, tank tops and hood­ies.

It’s clear that Long, who took over as sole creative di­rec­tor in 2016, is hav­ing fun with the brand, which is rooted in the cen­tral Adri­atic coast, Italy’s party cap­i­tal and the back­drop to many a Fed­erico Fellini film. He said he wanted this col­lec­tion to have a “Ri­mini in the Nineties hangover vibe” and also to honor the work of the com­pany’s co­founder, Gi­u­liana Mar­chini Gerani, “who had the idea of mak­ing ca­sual Ital­ian ath­letic wear — but not streetwear.”

After the show, Long took mod­els on a march through cen­tral Lon­don, past Som­er­set House, Trafal­gar Square and into Pic­cadilly in a spir­ited cam­paign aimed at “reed­u­cat­ing ev­ery­one about what Ice­berg is all about.” His ex­cite­ment is in­fec­tious — it won’t be a dif­fi­cult task. — S.C.

Ice­berg

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