New Blood

WWD Digital Daily - - Fashion Scoops / Memo Pad -

Crutch­ley for years, hav­ing worked with him at Louis Vuit­ton.

“It's my last week­end be­fore Paris and I wanted to see and sup­port my friends,” said Jones after the Kent & Cur­wen show, which started with lunch be­fore mod­els wound their way around the long white ta­bles dot­ted with red roses.

Asked what his first Dior Homme col­lec­tion was go­ing to look like, he wasn't giv­ing any­thing up. “It's a sur­prise,” said the de­signer, who in March was named artis­tic di­rec­tor of ready-to-wear and ac­ces­sory col­lec­tions at Dior Homme. — SA­MAN­THA CONTI In line with its on­go­ing com­mit­ment to cham­pion young tal­ent, Soho bou­tique Ma­chine-A hosted a show­case to open Lon­don Fash­ion Week Men's and shine the spot­light on the most ex­cit­ing fash­ion grad­u­ates.

The work on dis­play was part of a long project spear­headed by Stavros Karelis, co-owner and buy­ing di­rec­tor at Ma­chine-A, along­side the Cen­tral Saint Martins' me­dia plat­form One Gra­nary, and its fash­ion ed­u­ca­tion plat­form Void.

Ear­lier this year, Karelis cu­rated an ex­hi­bi­tion for Void that trav­eled to New York, Paris and Copen­hagen's In­ter­na­tional Fash­ion Fair to show­case the works of some of the most promis­ing de­sign stu­dents, who grad­u­ated from schools such as Par­sons The New School in New York, Cen­tral Saint Martins in Lon­don and the Fash­ion Academy in An­twerp.

Five of the grad­u­ates went on to work with Ma­chine-A on pro­duc­ing their first com­mer­cial col­lec­tions for the re­tailer.

“We are show­cas­ing the grad­u­ates that have been se­lected through­out the year and who we be­lieve are go­ing to do very well in the fu­ture. They all have very promis­ing tal­ent,” said Karelis of the stu­dents he chose for the project, who in­clude Bianca Saun­ders, Efty­chia Karamolegkou, Arnar Már Jóns­son, T/Sehne and Camilla Damk­jaer. “The idea was to of­fer them ex­po­sure in an in­ter­na­tional sense, in­tro­duce them to buy­ers from across the world and give them a first-hand ex­pe­ri­ence on how to sell a col­lec­tion.”

Karamolegkou, a Greek-born Lon­don-based de­signer, stands out for her in­no­va­tive ap­proach to tai­lor­ing where she in­cor­po­rates two-di­men­sional, origami-like struc­tures to re­work re­laxed women's suits.

Saun­ders, also a re­cent ad­di­tion to the British Fash­ion Coun­cil's New­gen scheme, is best known for ex­per­i­ment­ing with vol­ume and over­sized struc­tures, while Damk­jaer fo­cuses on pro­duc­ing ab­stract prints and in­cor­po­rat­ing wiring into her pieces in or­der for the wearer to be able to ma­nip­u­late its struc­ture.

T/Sehne's Stephen Piel is known for re­work­ing clas­sic men's tai­lor­ing sil­hou­ettes by splic­ing them or play­ing with pro­por­tion, while Jóns­son, an Ice­landic brand, is build­ing his aes­thetic around more tribal ref­er­ences.

— NATALIE THEODOSI

Prince An­drew, Queen El­iz­a­beth II, the

Duchess of Sus­sex, Prince Charles, Prince Harry, the Duchess of Cam­bridge

and Prince Wil­liam at­tend the an­nual Troop­ing the Colour cer­e­mony in Lon­don.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from USA

© PressReader. All rights reserved.