Fash­ion Scoops

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Raf’s Amer­i­can Spirit

For the first Calvin Klein in­stal­la­tion at De­sign Mi­ami/Basel,

Raf Si­mons has en­vi­sioned an upcycled Amer­i­can barn with an as­sort­ment of lim­ited-edi­tion Cassina Fel­tri arm­chairs.

Dreamed up by the Ital­ian de­signer Gae­tano Pesce in 1987, the Fel­tri arm­chair is an ironic take on the royal throne. But Calvin Klein's chief creative of­fi­cer se­lected up­hol­stery for the patented Fel­tri, which has a soft back­rest. Each of 100 num­bered Fel­tri arm­chairs has a one-of-a-kind Amer­i­can heir­loom quilt dat­ing back to the 19th and 20th cen­turies, em­blem­atic of Amer­i­can her­itage and a home­spun, hand­crafted ethos of days gone by.

For an added Amer­i­cana el­e­ment, one of the barns built with re­claimed wood from the 19th cen­tury for the Calvin Klein 205W39NYC fall show will be re­con­structed at the fair. As part of an on­go­ing al­liance with the Andy Warhol Foun­da­tion for the Vis­ual Arts, there are bill­board-size im­ages pa­pered on the in­te­rior of the barn. At­ten­dees at De­sign Mi­ami/Basel, which gets un­der­way Tues­day, will have first dibs on the first 50 chairs. The other 50 will go up for grabs at a later date.

The Warhol Foun­da­tion's di­rec­tor of li­cens­ing Michael Day­ton Her­mann said Mon­day, “The unique thing about this col­lab­ora- tion is that it is an on­go­ing story that goes across ad­ver­tis­ing, mar­ket­ing, mer­chan­dis­ing, art and of course the prod­uct it­self.” (The non­profit first joined forces with Si­mons for a project sev­eral years ago, dur­ing his Dior days.)

In ad­di­tion to his art, Si­mons knows about the ins and outs of tex­tiles de­sign for home col­lec­tions. In 2014, the de­signer teamed with Kvadrat to ap­ply his sense of style to the home. Blend­ing dif­fer­ent col­ors and ma­te­ri­als, Kvadrat/Raf Si­mons fea­tured throws, cush­ions and up­hol­stery.

As for the throne-like con­no­ta­tion of his Fel­tri col­lab­o­ra­tion, some might ar­gue that Si­mons reigns over Amer­i­can fash­ion, hav­ing won his sec­ond con­sec­u­tive Wom­enswear De­signer of the Year award from the Coun­cil of Fash­ion De­sign­ers of Amer­ica ear­lier this month.



Your Mark

In the ever-com­pet­i­tive ath­letic in­dus­try, global creative di­rec­tors — like other top-tier ex­ec­u­tives — are only given so much time to prove them­selves un­til the stop­watch stops. Time ran out for Ree­bok's creative di­rec­tor Thomas Stein­bruck, who ex­ited the com­pany ear­lier this year, and Karen Reuther has now suc­ceeded him as global creative di­rec­tor.

Ear­lier in her ca­reer, Reuther had a 12-year run at Nike that in­cluded serv­ing as global creative di­rec­tor, where she headed up global de­sign strate­gies for the brand across footwear, ap­parel and equip­ment. But she didn't have far to travel to join Ree­bok's down­town headquarters. Reuther was most re­cently creative di­rec­tor and brand psy­chol­o­gist at Cast Col­lec­tive, a Bos­ton-based group of con­sul­tants spe­cial­iz­ing in de­sign, in­no­va­tion and tech­nol­ogy. There she worked with such clients in­clud­ing Puma, Vans, Tim­ber­land, Pan­tone, Pi­ag­gio Fast For­ward, TJX Cos. Inc., Ev­ery­body Fights and Ideo.

Stein­bruck, who held the post for 18 months, did not re­spond im­me­di­ately to a request for com­ment Mon­day. Reuther was un­avail­able to com­ment Mon­day, ac­cord­ing to a Ree­bok spokes­woman. Un­like Reuther, he brought to the sneaker gi­ant more of a fash­ion sense, hav­ing served as Porsche De­sign Group's creative di­rec­tor, Eli Saab's vice pres­i­dent of col­lec­tions and Ken­neth Cole's vice pres­i­dent of de­sign.

At Ree­bok, Reuther will pro­vide “brand-defin­ing and con­sumer-rel­e­vant creative lead­er­ship across all de­sign dis­ci­plines, in­clud­ing brand iden­tity and de­sign im­ple­men­ta­tion, across ev­ery brand and con­sumer touch point,” ac­cord­ing to a state­ment is­sued by Ree­bok. — R.F.

Nine West Sold

Nine West Hold­ings Inc. has sold its Nine West and Ban­dolino footwear and hand­bag busi­nesses at a court auc­tion to Au­then­tic Brands Group for $340 mil­lion. The brand man­age­ment firm won the auc­tion by bid­ding more than $140 mil­lion over its initial stalk­ing horse bid.

Ralph Schipani, chief ex­ec­u­tive of­fi­cer of Nine West, said, “We are pleased to have com­pleted this im­por­tant step in our restruc­tur­ing and are now fo­cused on mov­ing for­ward with the re­or­ga­ni­za­tion of our re­main­ing busi­nesses with the sup­port of our key stake­holder groups.” ABG chair­man and ceo Jamie Sal­ter said, “The ad­di­tion of these two brands en­hances ABG's grow­ing life­style port­fo­lio, while launch­ing our global footwear plat­form. We see in­cred­i­ble op­por­tu­nity to ex­pand the brands be­yond footwear and hand­bags, specif­i­cally in the ap­parel and home cat­e­gories as well as in new mar­kets around the world.” Once the sale is ap­proved by a Man­hat­tan bank­ruptcy court and the deal has closed, ABG will as­sume all the li­cens­ing part­ner­ships and mar­ket­ing ini­tia­tives for both brands. ABG named Marc Fisher Footwear as oper­a­tor of the footwear busi­nesses and Sig­nal Prod­ucts as oper­a­tor of the hand­bag busi­nesses. A court hear­ing is sched­uled for June 18 and a clos­ing date is slated for July 15.

Nick Wood­house, pres­i­dent and chief mar­ket­ing of­fi­cer of ABG, said, “This pur­chase el­e­vates ABG's footwear and ac­ces­sories busi­ness to over $2 bil­lion in global re­tail sales and brings our port­fo­lio to nearly $8 bil­lion.”

Nine West Hold­ings filed for Chap­ter 11 bank­ruptcy court pro­tec­tion in April in a Man­hat­tan bank­ruptcy court.

Nine West Hold­ings sold the two busi­nesses so it can re­cap­i­tal­ize its bal­ance sheet. The sale will help the bank­rupt firm re­struc­ture oper­a­tions so it can fo­cus on its prof­itable busi­nesses — One Jean­swear Group, its Jew­elry Group, the Kasper Group and its Anne Klein busi­ness. The com­pany has said it plans to exit bank­ruptcy court pro­ceed­ings around Septem­ber. — VICKI M. YOUNG

The Se­quel

Guess Inc.’s Guess Jeans USA re­vealed de­tails of where its rov­ing Farm­ers Mar­ket pop-up con­cept is set to go next.

The com­pany in May launched the Farm­ers Mar­ket con­cept — a week­end-long force of ex­clu­sive streetwear drops and col­lab­o­ra­tions, skate­board demon­stra­tions, food and live mu­sic — with Ni­co­lai Mar­ciano, who han­dles brand part­ner­ships and spe­cialty mar­ket­ing for Guess, dis­clos­ing to WWD at the time the con­cept would in­deed hit the road in­ter­na­tion­ally, but didn't re­veal much be­yond that.

Guess said Mon­day the con­cept would be a mix of pop­ups with ex­clu­sives also to be sold through some re­tail­ers this month and next. Ex­act dates have yet to be re­vealed.

The pop-up con­cept, which will be a scaled-down version of what was seen in Los An­ge­les, is set to make its way to Paris at Club 75, Sel­fridges in Lon­don, GR8 in Tokyo, Lessons in Perth and Dover Street Mar­ket in Singapore.

In­ter­na­tional re­tail­ers set to re­ceive pieces from the cap­sule collection in­clude Slam­jam in Milan, Luisa Via Roma in Flo­rence, Juice in Hong Kong and on­line via the In­ner­sect App based out of China.

The idea for the Farm­ers Mar­ket was born out of Guess Jeans USA, which par­ent Guess calls its in­cu­ba­tor di­vi­sion. It be­gan as a col­lab­o­ra­tion be­tween Guess Jeans and Sean Wother­spoon, the founder of the bou­tique Round Two, with the collection orig­i­nally slated to launch at a tra­di­tional pop-up. The idea mor­phed into a farm­ers mar­ket-themed pop-up held on Lot 5 at Guess headquarters, fea­tur­ing pop-ups and prod­uct from Dar­ren Ro­manelli, Car­rots by An­war Car­rots, Plea­sures, Ut­most, Chi­na­town Mar­ket, Cali Thorn­hill Dewitt, Fon­taine Cards, Pin­trill and San­dal Boyz.

“It's the com­mu­nity. It's an ex­pe­ri­ence,” Mar­ciano told WWD at the time of the Mar­ket's launch. “You sell some­thing to a store, like a whole­sale ac­count and there's noth­ing spe­cial about that. It's very trans­ac­tional. Here, you're cre­at­ing a story around the cloth­ing that's drop­ping and an ex­pe­ri­ence that's hap­pen­ing and that's ul­ti­mately where our de­mo­graphic and the youth wants to con­nect these days.”


The Guess Farm­ers Mar­ket in Los An­ge­les.

The Calvin Klein in­stal­la­tion with a sam­pling of the lim­ited edi­tion Fel­tri arm­chairs.

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