Dover Street Mar­ket In­tro­duces Noam Griegst Dur­ing Frieze

WWD Digital Daily - - In Focus: Retailing -

The Dan­ish jew­eler is reis­su­ing 10 pieces from the la­bel’s ar­chive in honor of his late father’s work.

Arje Griegst forged a unique path as a jew­eler and sculp­tor, since found­ing his epony­mous la­bel in the Six­ties, and now a whole new gen­er­a­tion has the chance to own — and wear — his work.

Two years af­ter his father's death, Noam Griegst is set­ting out to honor his legacy and bring pieces from his ar­chive alive. They're cur­rently on dis­play — and for sale — out­side Copen­hagen for the first time at Dover Street Mar­ket in Lon­don. The store is de­but­ing 10 reis­sued de­signs by the late jew­eler dur­ing the Frieze Art Fair, which runs un­til Sun­day.

Griegst's com­mit­ment to crafts­man­ship was un­ri­valed: He made his first piece of cut­lery at age 10, re­ceived a De Beers Prize at 19 and went on to cre­ate a world of his own in­side his Copen­hagen stu­dio, de­sign­ing sculpted pieces in gold and pre­cious stones and of­ten re­ceiv­ing com­mis­sions from the Dan­ish Royal Fam­ily.

“A sin­gle ring could take two years to make. He would cast it in wax, again and again, un­til it was per­fected, and in the mean­time we were all starv­ing at home and my mum would go com­pletely crazy,” Noam said in an in­ter­view. “I've been work­ing as a fash­ion pho­tog­ra­pher for over 20 years and I've never seen any­thing like [his work]. For my dad, de­ci­sions were al­ways very clear — he went about cre­at­ing this whole closed uni­verse.”

The pieces on dis­play fea­ture a range of rings and ear­rings in spi­ral shapes, as well as some de­signs from the la­bel's “Cos­mos” col­lec­tion, which fea­tures sculpted jew­els with col­ored pearls and stones, in­spired by the stars, the cos­mos and the me­te­oroids.

The idea was to high­light some of the most wearable pieces: “We are not plan­ning on do­ing new pieces or ad­just­ing de­signs, ev­ery­thing is made from the orig­i­nal casts,” said Griegst. “We have about 200 to 300 dif­fer­ent de­signs and we've just re­leased 32 of them last year. We are very much in line with what was, and we're mov­ing for­ward very slowly.”

The com­pany is still work­ing with his father's gold­smiths and it's im­por­tant to re­spect their pace.

Fu­ture plans for Griegst in­clude a sec­ond launch with Dover Street Mar­ket in New

York and to con­tinue telling the story of the brand in a bid to en­cour­age cus­tomers to visit its Copen­hagen work­shop.

“I'm all for tech­nol­ogy and what dig­i­tal can do for you, but for price points like ours, you al­ways want to get peo­ple in the work­shop. The minute peo­ple come and see the pieces, they go for it,” added Griegst. Prices range from 1,200 pounds for a ring and go up from there.

In ad­di­tion to the part­ner­ship with Griegst, Dover Street Mar­ket hosted an open house on Thurs­day bring­ing to­gether cre­atives in­clud­ing Si­mone Rocha. The fash­ion de­signer was in store to launch the lat­est is­sue of “A Mag­a­zine Cu­rated By,” which she worked on with ed­i­tor in chief Dan Thaw­ley. Charles Jef­frey pre­sented his new fall 2018 ‘Zine along­side an art in­stal­la­tion, while lim­ited-edi­tion mer­chan­dise, such as Comme des Garçons Basquiat T-shirts and Junya Watan­abe Buf­falo sneak­ers, were also avail­able. — NATALIE THEODOSI

A piece byGriegst.

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