The area still retains plenty of atmos and bustle even if most of the crafts and artisans after whom the streets are named have long since gone to that special workshop in the sky. Ngoc Son Temple on Hoan Kiem Lake has nice views and is a good place to start. Have a peek at the stuffed turtle, but don’t dawdle in the souvenir shop, it’s mostly crud. Zip out, cross the road and turn left to go straight up Hang Dau. Once you reach Cau Go, you can turn left for the wet market 100m up, or simply continue on up Hang Dau – which confusingly becomes Hang Be – to Green Tangerine at #48 (see Rest./Casual). At the end of Hang Be, turn left into Hang Bac to find the few remaining gravestone carvers. Fancy a charming ‘Dunroamin’ sign for your country cottage? Take the first right into Ma May, and pop in the historic ‘tube’ house at #87. Pecky, Becky? Tamarind Café at #80 / 3926 0580 / has fresh coffee and juices, or opp. is 69 Ma May if you fancy a Viet-style coffee upstairs. Now, you’re at a crossroads, turn left into Luong Ngoc Quyen, trot along and make a right into Ta Hien (see Bars). Walk on, at the end turn left into Hang Buom to find the Bach Ma Temple – go on, have a goggle. Exit right and then immediately right again up the side of the temple – Hang Giay. Zip up and across Ngo Gach, past all the snack sellers and left onto Hang Chieu for all your woven mat/straw bag needs. Totter all the way along here, cross Dong Xuan onto Hang Ma, cross Hang Luoc and keep going. When you reach Hang Ga, turn left and walking down, you’ll see Lo Ren on your left where the metalworkers beaver. Continue down Hang Ga and now turn left into Hang Vai, it’s bamboo bonanza time here. On you go, but crikey, what’s that niff? Why, it’s the dried herbs of Lan Ong, the gals here sure do have huge fungi! Bet you could eat your neighbour’s dog. Well, that would not be unusual in Hanoi, but how about some turmeric grilled fish and fresh herbs instead? Pop your tired pants left into Cha Ca, where at #14 the infamous Cha Ca La Vong awaits (see Street Eats). Go on pet, treat yerself!