Old Quar­ter.

LUXE City Guides - Hanoi - - Activities -

The area still re­tains plenty of at­mos and bus­tle even if most of the crafts and ar­ti­sans af­ter whom the streets are named have long since gone to that spe­cial work­shop in the sky. Ngoc Son Tem­ple on Hoan Kiem Lake has nice views and is a good place to start. Have a peek at the stuffed tur­tle, but don’t daw­dle in the sou­venir shop, it’s mostly crud. Zip out, cross the road and turn left to go straight up Hang Dau. Once you reach Cau Go, you can turn left for the wet mar­ket 100m up, or sim­ply con­tinue on up Hang Dau – which con­fus­ingly be­comes Hang Be – to Green Tan­ger­ine at #48 (see Rest./Ca­sual). At the end of Hang Be, turn left into Hang Bac to find the few re­main­ing grave­stone carvers. Fancy a charm­ing ‘Dun­roamin’ sign for your coun­try cot­tage? Take the first right into Ma May, and pop in the his­toric ‘tube’ house at #87. Pecky, Becky? Ta­marind Café at #80 / 3926 0580 / has fresh coffee and juices, or opp. is 69 Ma May if you fancy a Viet-style coffee up­stairs. Now, you’re at a cross­roads, turn left into Luong Ngoc Quyen, trot along and make a right into Ta Hien (see Bars). Walk on, at the end turn left into Hang Buom to find the Bach Ma Tem­ple – go on, have a gog­gle. Exit right and then im­me­di­ately right again up the side of the tem­ple – Hang Giay. Zip up and across Ngo Gach, past all the snack sellers and left onto Hang Chieu for all your wo­ven mat/straw bag needs. Tot­ter all the way along here, cross Dong Xuan onto Hang Ma, cross Hang Luoc and keep go­ing. When you reach Hang Ga, turn left and walk­ing down, you’ll see Lo Ren on your left where the met­al­work­ers beaver. Con­tinue down Hang Ga and now turn left into Hang Vai, it’s bam­boo bo­nanza time here. On you go, but crikey, what’s that niff? Why, it’s the dried herbs of Lan Ong, the gals here sure do have huge fungi! Bet you could eat your neigh­bour’s dog. Well, that would not be un­usual in Hanoi, but how about some turmeric grilled fish and fresh herbs in­stead? Pop your tired pants left into Cha Ca, where at #14 the in­fa­mous Cha Ca La Vong awaits (see Street Eats). Go on pet, treat yer­self!

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