Get a fresh take on India in the great outdoors

With the country set to celebrate 75 years of independence, Poonam Binayak urges us to look beyond the obvious sights and try hiking, biking, ziplining, paragliding or scuba diving

2022-08-13 -

There are no two ways about it: India is enormous – and, as with all enormous places, there are a million ways to explore it. Most visitors will find themselves drawn by the country’s historical and cultural treasures, such as the spiritual city of Varanasi on the Ganges, the glamorous Mumbai, the palaces and forts of Rajasthan and the iconic Taj Mahal – particularly in the year India marks 75 years of independence (the day itself falls on Monday). But there is far more to the world’s second most populous country than ancient temples and frenetic cities.

The subcontinent also packs in some of the most diverse landscapes anywhere on the planet, from the mighty rivers and soaring peaks of the Himalayas to the sun-kissed beaches and lush jungles of the tropical south. And the best time to get acquainted with this alternative side of India is in the depths of winter.

While Mother Nature puts on quite a show in the country’s northern regions from December to March – covering the Himalayas in a blanket of white to create some of the continent’s most magnificent vistas – down south it is a different story. Here, the landscape is green and the climate is pleasantly warm – perfect for basking on the beaches, indulging in water sports, lapping up breathtaking scenery on a cycling trip through the forested Western Ghats mountain range, or venturing into the world beneath the waves.

Whether you are craving snow or sun, a dip under the ocean or a climb up mighty peaks, you will find it all in India this winter. Here’s how:

Hit the trails

No matter what your age or ability, or how long you have to spare, India has a hiking trail to suit. If you are a novice hiker or pressed for time, try the ninemile Triund trek in the northern state of Himachal Pradesh. The route starts from McLeod Ganj (the Dalai Lama’s home), winding through forests of oak and rhododendron trees to eventually reach 9,350ft above sea level, where it becomes a split-screen of nature: on one side lies the verdant Kangra Valley, on the other the Dhauladhar range of the Himalayas, cloaked in snow during the winter. Camp overnight at the hilltop for a truly captivating sunset.

For an adventure off the usual tourist trail – with a dose of culture thrown in – tackle the 4.3-mile Nongriat trek, which includes time spent with the Khasi people learning about the various traditions typical in the northeastern state of Meghalaya. The hike meanders along a time-worn trail, starting in Tyrna Village, near Cherrapunji – one of the wettest places in the world – and leads to a centuries old double-decker living root bridge: a part natural, part manmade wonder made from rubber trees.

Travellers with a particular bent for adventure, as well as good stamina and more time, can opt for the Chadar trek in the Zanskar Gorge, Ladakh. It involves travelling across a frozen river and sleeping in caves, not to mention sub-zero temperatures, until reaching the frozen waterfall of Nerak at 11,150ft. It is not for the soft adventurer, but is nevertheless one of the most magnificent treks in the Himalayas. hThrillophilia (thrillophilia.com) offers a two-day Triund Trek setting off and returning to McLeod Ganj from £9pp, including dome tent accommodation, vegetarian meals and a guide. hTravel The Unknown (020 7183 6371; traveltheunknown.com) offers a sevenday Living Bridges of Meghalaya tour from £1,795, including flights, transfers, accommodation, entrance fees to sites and parks, and most meals. hTrek the Himalayas (trekthehimalayas.com) offers the eight-day Chadar Trek Frozen River tour from £212pp, including meals, airport transfer and accommodation.

Zip through the skies in Jodhpur

Jodhpur, in India’s regal region of Rajasthan, is worth visiting for the Mehrangarh Fort alone – the imposing 1,200-acre complex that has loomed over the city from its hilltop perch for more than five centuries.

See it from a new perspective by taking on the Flying Fox zipline tour, which lasts for an hour and a half and includes a 20-minute practice session, followed by six different zip lines – ranging from 230ft to a whopping 1,017ft – in and around the fort. The rush when you glide down Zip 6 (the longest) – which hovers over two lakes, several moats and the crenellations of this medieval masterpiece – is unbeatable. h Flying Fox Jodhpur (00 91 01166 103678; flyingfox.asia) offers zipline packages for £17-£19 and zipline tours inside Neemrana Fort-Palace in Neemrana, Rajasthan, from £13pp. There is also a five-zip tour spanning 4,659ft (the longest in South Asia) at Kikar Lodge, Punjab, priced at £19-£21 and – if you are tight for time – a single zipline from £13pp.

Swap four wheels for two

Northeast India’s empty roads and pristine alpine valleys make for perfect mountain biking territory, and a tour with Cycling in India – departing from Gangtok, the capital of the “all-organic” Sikkim state, and finishing in Darjeeling at 6,709ft above sea level – is a solid option if you are nervous about embarking on a cycling odyssey alone.

Passing through small villages and wending between forests and glossyleafed tea plantations, you can admire traditional Buddhist monasteries, make a wish at the sacred Khecheopalri Lake, and enjoy epic panoramas of Himalayan peaks – including Kanchenjunga and Everest, from Tiger Hill – before finishing with a ride up into the mountains on the “toy” train.

Down south, take to the saddle and explore the Unesco-listed Western Ghats: a line of forested hills stretching the length of the region. En route, visit tribal villages and temple towns, pass green-tea and spice estates and wildlife-rich parks, and chill out in the Raj-era hill stations. Keep an eye out for langur monkeys, elephants and fluorescent birds flitting through the delicious wilderness. h Cycling in India (00 91 99113 36281; cyclinginindia.com) offers a 10-day tour from £1,585pp, including bikes, all meals, backup AC vehicle, inner line permit, toll charges, road and transport taxes, accommodation in a mix of ecoresorts and family-run hotels, and airport and hotel transfers. h Responsible Travel (01273 823700; responsibletravel.com) offers six-day tailor-made Western Ghats Mountain Biking Holidays from £570pp, including accommodation.

Venture off the beaten track in the Sunshine State

With 100 miles of coastline and numerous rivers, Goa provides unlimited scope for things to do on the water. Bolder travellers can head to North Goa’s Calangute Beach or Chapora River to try hydroflying – a relatively new sport in which pressurised water jets rocket thrill-seekers 30ft above the water as they balance on a board. For a gentler experience, kayak through Chapora River’s mangrove channels, past the many birds that thrive there, including egrets, cormorants and herons. hAtlantic Water Sports (00 91 77960 77961; atlantiswatersports.in) offers hydroflying from £29pp. hKonkan Explorers (00 91 96893 13506; konkanexplorers.com) has a kayaking session in Chapora River for £12pp.

Get wet and wild in the north east

With an outstanding selection of Himalayan-fed rivers, India has plenty of white-water action. More timid travellers should head for white-water rafting hub Rishikesh, the town on the banks of the Ganges where the Beatles sought spiritual enlightenment in the late 1960s, and where the mighty river churns out Class II and III rapids.

Alternatively, for a real rush, take to the navigable 111-mile stretch of the Siang River from Tuting to Pasighat, which offers the full water-rodeo experience – including rapids ranging from class III to IV and above – between which you will glide past jungle gorges and tribal settlements and camp on riverside sandbanks. hRed Chilli Adventures (00 91 13524 34021; redchilliadventure.com) offers a 13-day Brahmaputra River Expedition from £1,555pp, including accommodation, transfers and meals, and three- to six-hour Ganga River Rafting packages from £16pp.

Go potholing in Meghalaya

Those with a bent for adventure can trek across a frozen river and sleep in caves

Both beginner and expert potholers can explore the subterranean world of Meghalaya, a tiny state in India’s rugged north-east honeycombed with spectacular limestone caves, among which are some of the deepest and longest in Asia. Keen novices can opt for the Arwah Cave in Cherrapunji – where chambers contain stalactites, stalagmites and fossils – while the nearby Mawsmai show cave is also ideal for all ages and abilities. h JustWravel (00 91 96670 51161; justwravel.com) offers the three-day Enthralling Meghalaya with Shillong and Cherrapunji tour from £119pp, including accommodation, some meals, all inner line permits, and a visit to the caves.

Take a deep dive into the underwater world

The Andaman Islands – 850 miles east of the mainland in the Bay of Bengal – are considered to be the scuba diving capital of India bar none, known for their exceptional marine biodiversity, excellent visibility (more than 130ft) and incredibly healthy reefs. Renowned dive sites include Pilot Reef, prolific with fish and the occasional elusive zebra sharks; Jackson’s Bar, where you may see Kuhl’s stingrays on the seafloor; and Dixon’s Pinnacle, which attracts passing reef sharks and schools of barracudas and snappers.

For a dive site closer to the mainland, head to the low-key Netrani Island in the southern state of Karnataka. The waters are clear and the reefs full of marine creatures – among them turtles and sea urchins. It is prohibited to stay on the island overnight, but day trips are easy to arrange from the nearby town of Murudeshwar. hTaj Exotica Resort & Spa, Andamans (00 91 89009 61383; tajhotels.com) has double rooms from £346 per night. hLaca Dives (00 91 96196 90898; lacadives.com) offers fun dives for certified divers in Havelock from £41pp, and an Introduction to Scuba Diving course from £46pp. h Plan The Unplanned (00 91 81470 86083; plantheunplanned.com) offers Scuba Diving at Netrani Island – Murudeshwar from £91pp, including a 40-minute diving session with an instructor, plus accommodation and some meals.

Catch some waves off the west coast

India’s 4,000 miles of coastline – along the Arabian Sea to the west and the Bay of Bengal in the east – offer a veritable smorgasbord of experiences for surfing enthusiasts. The east coast befits intermediates and serious surfers, with right-hand point, beach and reef breaks, though the secluded Butler Bay in Little Andaman and Covelong Village in Tamil Nadu are perhaps the most famous.

Beginners can kick things off on India’s west coast, either at laid-back hippie haunt Varkala, Kovalam in Kerala, or the stretch from Ashwem to Arambol beach in the far north of Goa, all of which are popular for mellow waves and warm water year-round. h Soul & Surf (01273 931282; soulandsurf.com) in Varkala offers a 90-minute surf lesson (with board hire) from £20pp and a “really nice room”, which sleeps two, from £115 per night. hSurf Wala (00 91 91461 18015; surfwala. com) in Goa offers a three-day surfing course for £82pp.

Paddle through the backwaters of Kerala

Though exploring Kerala’s backwaters on a houseboat is on the hit list of many visitors to India’s southern tip, kayaking can make for a far more intimate, immersive and active alternative. Paddling through the narrow backwater canals, you will glide past paddy fields and lagoons rich in bird life and can visit remote villages and see local life at close quarters away from the main thoroughfares – without the constant thrum of an engine in the background. h Kalypso Adventure (00 91 48440 12700; kalypsoadventures.com) offers a fiveday Backwater Kayaking Expedition in Kerala from £558pp, based on two people sharing, including single/twin kayaks, homestay accommodation, a guide, and all meals and refreshments.

Soar like a bird in Bir

Since hosting the Paragliding World Cup in 2015, Bir – a tiny Tibetan village in the northern state of Himachal Pradesh – has become a prime paragliding venue for beginners and seasoned pros alike. Solo and guided gliders primarily take off from Billing, roughly nine miles above Bir, between September and November. As the glider lifts off from the hill’s edge, the Kangra Valley opens out beneath – a stunning streak of greenery nestled between the peaks of the Dhauladhar Range – before you begin your descent into Bir. h Bir Billing Air (birbillingair.com) offers paragliding experiences ranging from tandem rides to full-blown professional courses. Tandem Joy Rides lasting 15 to 30 minutes are priced from £32pp. Bed down at boutique B&B La Maison (00 91 09560 634164; lamaisonbir.com), where double rooms cost from £36 per night.

Track down Bengal tigers

For wildlife lovers, seeing a tiger up close in its natural habitat is truly the experience of a lifetime – and nowhere on Earth are the odds of glimpsing these elusive predators higher than in India, home to two-thirds of the global tiger population and more than 50 tiger reserves.

Bandhavgarh, Kanha and Pench national parks, in the central state of Madhya Pradesh, are the most famous for tiger spotting. They are at their best between November and early spring (the parks are closed to visitors during the summer months). hExodus (020 3885 9103; exodus.co.uk) offers a 16-day India Tiger Safari to all three national parks from £2,699pp. The price includes 15 game drives, accommodation, transfers, some meals, a trip to the city of Agra – and a sunset visit to the Taj Mahal.

Embark on a snowy escapade in Kashmir

A popular summer retreat for the British in colonial times, today Gulmarg – in the Kashmir region – is India’s leading ski resort. Standing at a respectable 8,690ft, it is typically snow-sure from January to early March, and boasts five ski lifts – including the two-stage Gulmarg Gondola cable car, which whizzes you to the top of 12,960ft Mt Apharwat, from which adventurous skiers can undertake off-piste runs with sensational views of the Himalayas. hSki Gulmarg (00 88 69078 19131; skigulmarg.com) offers ski packages for every ability. The tailor-made Deluxe Powder Package costs from £1,134pp, including return airport shuttles, accommodation at Khyber Resort, meals (breakfast and dinner) and a private ski guide. More accomplished (and deep-pocketed) powder hounds can opt for heli-skiing – Ski Gulmarg’s Pir Panjal package costs from £4,385pp, including six nights of heli-skiing and accommodation.

Try outdoor bouldering in Karnataka

Long famous for its archaeological ruins, the Unesco world heritage site of Hampi is now a world-class bouldering destination, with climbers from across the world drawn to its granite outcrops and ranges particularly suited to beginners. More advanced climbers can head 90 miles north to Badami, where sandstone crags mostly cater to mid-to-high grades. hThe luxurious Evolve Back Hampi (00 91 63669 20434; evolveback.com) has double rooms from £370 per night. h Golden Boulders (00 91 94827 46697; goldenboulders.com) offers a 2½ hour bouldering session from £10pp and full-day bouldering sessions from £31pp. hAvathi (00 91 89712 02915; avathi. com) offers a two-day Badami Rock Climbing and Temple Tour from £38pp, including rock climbing lessons, gear and shoes, a cave temple tour and a hike to an ancient site.

Go for a ride (by camel or jeep) in Jaisalmer

If you only have time to do one thing in the northern state of Rajasthan, make it a stint in the desert – preferably on a camel safari. Head to Sam Sand Dunes, one of the most accessible parts of the Thar Desert, roughly 25 miles west of Jaisalmer, or take a four-wheel-drive jeep safari. You will spend a night in a luxury desert camp, eat local fare and sleep under the stars. hTrotters Tours & Travels (00 91 98289 29974; trottersjaisalmer. net) offers one-day El Grande Desert Camp trips from £101pp,

including accommodation, camel ride, jeep safari, traditional cultural programme and some meals.

Covid rules All travellers aged five and over must fill out a self-declaration form on the online Air Suvidha portal (newdelhiairport.in), and on arrival may be asked to present proof of vaccination or a negative PCR test taken within the past 72 hours