Boutique biodynamic dairy sales soaring
Far from being a new-age, trendy product that only hippies consume, biodynamic milk produced by Mungalli Creek dairy in Far North Queensland appeals to a wide range of people and the dairy cannot meet demand for most of the year.
Property owners Rob and Danny Watson changed the traditional dairy farm at Millaa Millaa, on the Atherton Tableland, into a biodynamic operation in 1987 and after a lot of trial and error in the conversion process, were certified Demeter biodynamic in 2000.
Nationwide publicity about some of the downsides of cheap supermarket milk, has caused an upswing in milk sales for the boutique producer.
Mungalli Creek dairy uses milk produced by their own farm and two others that have converted to biodynamics, for packaged milk, cheeses and yoghurts for their Mungalli Creek brand.
Unable to convince other local dairy farmers to convert to biodynamics, the team at Mungalli Creek searched around for another niche market so they could use their surplus processing capacity and decided upon Jersey milk as a possibility.
Misty Mountain Farms was launched in July last year, with strict conditions on milk production, including Jersey milk, there be no GM feed and farmers are encouraged to farm holistically.
Rob Watson, together with his partner and marketing manager Michelle Bell-turner, created the second brand to target those consumers who wanted a local, high quality premium milk not necessarily organic, and to offer a pathway for those farmers to consider biodynamic practices down the track. Ms BellTurner said the decision to launch the new product was partly based on the fact their Mungalli factory had surplus processing capacity and the fact the local market was constantly asking them for more milk.
Mungalli Creek has a milk intake of about 5,000L per day of certified biodynamic milk and 3,500L of Jersey milk for the Misty Mountain brand, but current demand far outweighs supply. Ms Bell-turner said at present they were only filling 60 per cent of demand.
Rob Watson said the biodynamic Mungalli milk was processed first, followed by Misty Mountains, then the factory is thoroughly cleaned for the biodynamic milk the next day.
“Misty Mountains Jersey Milk doesn’t have the same margin as Mungalli, but it all helps,” he said.
“As we haven’t been able to meet the demand for biodynamic milk for the last couple of years and demand for packaged milk has grown so rapidly, we have ceased making hard cheeses.
Part of the supply problem, is that demand for our products is highest in winter when milk supply is at its lowest.”
Ms Bell-turner said information on a popular current affairs television program a couple of years ago about some of the techniques used in commercial milk, had a massive impact on demand. “Our milk demand went through the roof and it’s never caught up since,” she said.
Mungalli milk’s and yoghurts are sold throughout North Queensland through the major retailers, and yoghurts and soft cheeses are sold by specialty retailers in capital cities.
Mr Watson said while he wanted to increase their own farm production, he does not want to push the farm beyond its natural limits, which leads to all sorts of problems.
“However there are a wide range of improvements we can make to both even out supply throughout the year and improve quantity and quality.”
They have found the higher price for biodynamic milk is no deterrent to the conscientious customer and once they’ve tasted the difference, customers are very loyal
Ms Bell-turner says operating the tea-house, pictured above, helps with brand recognition and southern sales of value-added products.
Entering and winning dairy awards has a dual effect, with increased brand recognition and sales and Ms Bell-turner says it has a huge effect on morale, for both staff and their farmers. With a wall full of awards and medals in the teahouse, it serves as a constant reminder about why they do what they do.
At the 2011 Royal Queensland Show, they won nine medals, including gold for Mungalli Full Cream Biodynamic Milk, Misty Mountains Full Cream Milk, Misty Mountains Spicy Plum Dip, silver for Mungalli Low Fat Biodynamic Milk, Misty Mountains Dollop Cream, Misty Mountains Thai Lime & Pepper Dip, Misty Mountains - Sweet Chilli & Ginger Dip and bronze for Mungalli Greek Natural Yoghurt and Misty Mountains Low Fat Milk.
This was the fourth time that Mungalli Creek has received a gold medal for their milk, having been awarded gold medals previously in the 2007 and 2009 Royal Queensland Show and the 2008 Dairy Industry Association of Australia Awards.
The property, 800m above sea level, uses 75 per cent - 150ha - for dairying with the remaining 50ha fenced off to revert to native vegetation as it is too steep.
Established in 1920, the farm is surrounded on three sides by World Heritage listed rainforest and sits just above the scenic Mungalli Falls.
The unique environment protects the soil and pasture from potential spray drift from chemicals.
The farm is in a high rainfall area and soils are mainly derived from a rich volcanic basalt that grows highquality pastures.
Owned by the Watson family since 1964, up to 180 cows are milked, a mixture of Jersey, Brown Swiss, Friesian and Aussie Red, all year round.
The farming side is managed by Danny, production by Rob and marketing by Michelle.
Under the biodynamic system, the biodynamic preparations along with good farming practices are used to stimulate beneficial reactions within the soil and produce top quality humus, giving plants all their requirements for optimal, healthy growth.
The brothers’ father, Herb Watson, was never a big chemical user during his time managing the property, making it an easy decision for his sons to convert to biodynamics.
Success of the overall operation all comes back to two decisions - converting to biodynamics and processing their own milk under their own label.
In that way, they have a product that sets them apart from the larger companies, and they do away with the middle man.
Rob Watson says one of the challenges of biodynamic farming, compared with conventional, was that a change could not be made instantly, such as applying fertiliser if pasture is needed rapidly, and so the farmer needs to think ahead more and be proactive not reactive.
He says the soil had better waterholding capacity because of the increased humus, compared with non biodynamic soils in the area.
“Our soils in the conversion to biodynamics went from a burnt out orange colour to a rich chocolate brown, the soil structure is much improved.”
Rainfall of about 3,750mm a year meant irrigation was not an issue and there was plenty of feed most of the time if they “don’t push the place”.
He had observed that when cows are not pushed, mastitis and other health issues were not as common.
The herd averages up to 15 litres/ cow/day mainly from home-grown forage with minimal concentrate feeding in times of feed shortfall, compared with a conventional dairy in the area producing up to 25 litres/ cow/day, however they are pushed with heaps of grain and concentrates, he says.
In the dairy, ordinary detergents are used and the equipment is flushed with hot water before milking and a peroxide-based sanitiser is used.
Ms Bell-turner says they spend less than $1,500/month on farm inputs, plus the odd application of seaweed or fish emulsion. “Once the soil has been remineralised and the biodynamic preparations are applied regularly, soil fertility virtually looks after itself as you’re back working with nature,” she explained.
“The cows are much healthier - the vet bills reflect that. The cows have a longer lifespan and we can keep them as milkers for a much longer time.”
All processing occurs onsite, at the back of the teahouse, through which customers can see some of the production process.
A milk truck collects raw milk from all six farms and it is transferred into vats for processing into bottled milk, yoghurt, cheese or cream.
The family also sources top quality organic and biodynamic fruit for the bases of yoghurts and prepare them onsite. Fresh herbs and top quality oils are sourced for flavoured or marinated cheeses.
Staff in 2007 was up to 30, including casuals and weekend juniors but now this is around the 45 mark.
The Watson family is carving out a positive future for the North Qld dairy industry in what some would say are very challenging times. They now receive milk from six farms including their own - this is 10 per cent of the total number of farms in the region and see good opportunities for growth in both their brands of milk.