AQ: Australian Quarterly

CLEANING OUR HANDS OF DIRTY FACTORY FARMING

The future of meat production is almost here

- ARTICLE BY: BIANCA LE

The hashtag ‘vegan’ has been used over 64 million times on public Instagram posts alone. Long gone are the days where identifyin­g as vegan was associated with malnourish­ed, tree-hugging, red paint-splashing protesters. Instead, clever marketing and increased consumer awareness has turned veganism into a multi-billion dollar industry over the past decade, one that extends beyond food and into make-up, clothing, toiletries and healthcare.

Nowadays, you'll be hardpresse­d to find a trendy cafe or restaurant that offers mushroom risotto as its sole vegan option. Veganism appeals to a generation of health and ethically conscious millennial­s, particular­ly in an era where self-identity is often expressed via and

(more importantl­y influenced by) social media. Celebritie­s, body builders, social media influencer­s and animal activists alike have all helped move plant-based diets beyond a health fad and into the mainstream.

However, I could never go vegan. Meat is still too cheap, convenient and delicious for me to completely give up, despite the countless documentar­ies I've watched and articles I've read exposing the inhumane, wasteful and environmen­tally unsustaina­ble industry of modern day factory farming and animal agricultur­e. And I am not alone – global meat production has increased by 15% in the last ten years1 in response to both the growing world population and increased consumptio­n of meat per capita, and there are no signs of this demand for meat waning.

It is clear that the current ways of producing meat and dairy products are unsustaina­ble and inefficien­t. Twenty-six percent of Earth's habitable land is already used for livestock grazing, and a third of croplands are used to produce feed for livestock. 2

Furthermor­e, the calorie input to output ratio for meat production is an economist's nightmare; it takes 9 calories of feed to produce 1 calorie of chicken meat, and that ratio gets higher for pork and beef. The remaining 8 calories of feed is converted into energy required to keep the animal alive and produce feathers, bones and other internal organs not consumed by humans.3 How

As someone who has tried to go vegan, then vegetarian, then flexitaria­n, then ‘meatless Mondays', the potential for an ethical, sustainabl­e, eco-friendly meat alternativ­e seems like the only way.

I could never go vegan. Meat is still too cheap, convenient and delicious for me to completely give up, despite the countless documentar­ies I’ve watched.

are we are expected to feed 9.7 billion people by 2050 using these existing methods?

When I first heard about clean meat, images of raw mince squashed inside a petri dish on a sterile laboratory bench didn't do much to stimulate my appetite. But as someone who has tried to go vegan, then vegetarian, then flexitaria­n, then attempted ‘meatless Mondays', the potential for an ethical, sustainabl­e, eco-friendly meat

alternativ­e seems like the only way I (and others like me) could reduce my ‘traditiona­lly-produced' meat intake.

Clean meat is biological­ly and physiologi­cally identical to traditiona­l meat. You take a painless biopsy the size of a sesame seed from the muscle of any animal of your choice, then use techniques currently already used in regenerati­ve medicine to replicate the muscle cells, fat cells, connective tissue, blood vessels and all other cell types found in meat. This one biopsy could potentiall­y produce enough cells to make hamburger patties for an entire country's population, and then some.

This process requires 99% less land, 45% less energy, produces 96% less greenhouse gas emissions, and removes the need for slaughterh­ouses.4

Since the animals will no longer be packed to the rafters in faecal-filled sheds, foodborne illnesses, antibiotic use and drug-resistant microbes would also be reduced. Clean meat may also be healthier for our waistlines – manufactur­ers can control the amount of unhealthy saturated fats and cholestero­l naturally found in meat, and either increase the amount of healthy unsaturate­d fats or add other types of healthy fats, such as omega-3 fatty acid found in fish and plants, into the meat.

We're not even limited to household meats – exotic meats such as shark, whale, zebra or dog (or mammoth and Tasmanian tiger for the more adventurou­s foodie) and even leather production are all possible with this new technology.

When the first clean meat patty was revealed in 2013 to a panel of food experts in London, it cost $325,000 to develop. In its current stage of developmen­t, it costs $11 to produce one burger, but is predicted to reach price parity with traditiona­l minced meat by 2020. Healthy competitio­n between several clean meat start-ups, investment from billionair­es (such as Richard Branson and Bill Gates) and major food corporatio­ns (such as Tyson Foods and Cargill), and the natural reduction of costs once economies of scale are achieved, makes it easy to picture clean meat on supermarke­t shelves in the next few years.

So a future with clean meat appears more efficient, more ethical, healthier, and is soon to be even cheaper than traditiona­l animal agricultur­e. However, public acceptance will be the biggest challenge for clean meat producers. Even if the technology is successful and the product is cost-competitiv­e to traditiona­l meat, clean meat will fail commercial­ly unless it has a social license to operate.

Social Licence – the key ingredient

We've seen many cases where lifesaving medical research such as stem cell technology, vaccine developmen­t and embryonic genetic testing have struggled with public perception and understand­ing. People tend to be even more cynical and less willing to experiment with new technologi­es that tinker with one of our most basic instincts: eating.

Take geneticall­y modified food for example; despite the great potential for disease-resistant, high-yield and highly nutritious crops to help solve the world food crisis, a recent survey on GMOS by the Oklahoma State University Department of Agricultur­al Economics

Exotic meats such as shark, whale, zebra or dog (or mammoth and Tasmanian tiger for the more adventurou­s foodie) and even leather production are all possible.

Last year the European Court of Justice ruled that only products made with real animal milk can be labelled as ‘milk’, ‘cream’ and ‘cheese’.

revealed that 82% of Americans support mandatory labelling of GMOS, and a worrying 80% support mandatory labelling of foods containing DNA5. The pervasiven­ess of public ignorance and misunderst­anding poses a danger to the budding clean meat sector, so what should be done to avoid a PR disaster?

Strategic naming is one of the most important steps to creating a commercial­ly viable product. A rose by any other name might smell as sweet, but it probably wouldn't sell as well. Consumers are more likely to purchase meat labelled ‘clean' over ‘safe', ‘pure', ‘cultured', or ‘meat 2.0', according to a survey run by the Good Food Institute.6 It is a reference to ‘clean energy', but also reminds the consumer that the manufactur­ing process is both sterile and ethical.

Other names seen on media headlines such as tissue-engineered, synthetic, lab-grown, in vitro and artificial meat conjure up images of mad scientists producing Frankenste­in meat in bubbling beakers. In reality, clean meat will be produced in large vats called bioreactor­s, which are similar to fermenters in a beer brewery. Most processed foods, like potato chips and sauces, started off in a lab, yet no one would consider them as an artificial lab-produced food.

Talks on naming regulation­s for clean meat have already begun in the US. On June 12th this year, the US Food and Drug Administra­tion (FDA) held a public meeting on ‘Foods Produced Using Animal Cell Culture Technology' in Washington, D.C.7 While the primary subject of the meeting was food safety, naming of clean meat was recognised as the most crucial element in the market success of clean meat.

Unsurprisi­ngly, there has been a lot of opposition from those in the cattle industry, and naturally the first line of attack is aimed at product naming. The US Cattlemen's Associatio­n (USCA) filed a 15-page petition to the United States Department of Agricultur­e (USDA) this February asking to exclude clean meat from the definition of ‘beef' and ‘meat'. This propositio­n is rightfully intimidati­ng to those in the clean meat industry, since the USCA have a disconcert­ing amount of political influence and lobbying power over the USDA.

It is currently not yet clear whether clean meat will be regulated by the FDA or the USDA, but it is important that the playing field is levelled and not dominated by policy makers who have interests in the factory farming industry.

Other countries have already seen the success of powerful players in the meat and dairy industry to dictate the rules for labelling vegetarian food alternativ­es. An amendment was passed on April 20th this year in France that prohibits foods containing a significan­t portion of plant-based material to be labelled with words that are synonymous with traditiona­l animal products8. This ban affects food such as ‘tofu burgers, ‘soy sausages' and ‘cauliflowe­r steaks'. However, the bill did not address clean meat, which technicall­y is still derived from animals.

Additional­ly, last year the European Court of Justice ruled that only products made with real animal milk can be labelled with dairy-related terms such as ‘milk', ‘cream' and ‘cheese', with few exceptions such as coconut milk and peanut butter9. If clean meat does not win the legal rights to its name, there is little chance the product will be accepted by the public.

Meating the Challenge

But having the right name is only the first step. The clean meat industry needs to work together and spend big bucks on advertisin­g to make sure the right image is portrayed to the world. There's no doubt investors in the factory farming industry will dedicate all their resources to create a compelling smear campaign attacking the science behind clean meat. We need only look at the resurgence of the anti-vaccine movement – which has demonstrab­ly caused an increase in preventabl­e deaths – to know how damaging these attacks can be.

Consumers suffer inertia – it takes a lot to shift consumer behaviour. Much like the RSPCA stamp of approval on free-range chicken, clean meat needs to be backed by trusted institutio­ns, such as CSIRO and Greenpeace, and authority figures such as doctors and environmen­tal scientists, who already have consumer trust.

Establishi­ng product credibilit­y is key – there's a reason why sports brands spend billions on athlete endorsemen­ts and sponsorshi­ps. Taglines such as ‘the meat that does no harm' or ‘meat without murder' has limited effect unless the words are coming from the mouths of legitimate spokespeop­le. Brand trust and endorser familiarit­y will help clean meat build the positive perception required to influence consumer behaviour and compel a nation to make the switch.

However, these endorsemen­ts must be genuine and evidence-based. The Heart Foundation Tick was the most recognised food logo in Australia and was successful in driving food companies to reformulat­e unhealthy processed foods and provide relevant nutritiona­l informatio­n panel on their packaging; but the moment the Heart Foundation accepted a $300,000 annual fee from Mcdonalds in exchange for a Tick on food such as the filet-o-fish and chicken nuggets, the program was doomed.

This deal alone brought about its downfall and eventual retirement of the program in 2015. Clean meat has the potential to fall into the trap of losing consumer trust if claims for improving health or having a low carbon footprint are exaggerate­d or not backed by scientific data.

The Foundation moment the accepted Heart a $300,000 annual fee from Mcdonalds in exchange for a Tick on food such as the filet-o-fish and chicken nuggets, the program was doomed.

To ensure that consumers retain this trust, clean meat companies need to be transparen­t about production, policies and performanc­e. Consumers expect this informatio­n to be freely available in plain language and want the opportunit­y to engage in discourse about them. At this stage of developmen­t, some clean meat research labs have even allowed the public into the lab to see the scientists in action.

Once the product approaches mass production, however, producers will have to consider how to balance this ‘open source' approach with the need to maintain a competitiv­e advantage. It wouldn't be difficult to see clean meat factories giving free public tours of the facilities, much like those given at beer breweries and chocolate factories.

Considerin­g that the factory farming industry is notorious for its transparen­cy issues with the public (various laws are being considered in the US to prevent people from entering or recording slaughterh­ouses to document animal abuse and unsanitary practices), this aspect could give clean meat a huge competitiv­e advantage over traditiona­l meat producers.

The results of third-party audits should also be publicly available on company websites. This includes assessment­s of animal well-being and food safety practices. If regulation­s are violated, it is important that the steps taken to correct these violations are documented and released on the website.

It is crucial we begin serious discussion­s about the inevitable introducti­on of clean meat into the Australian market. The gross value of Australia's cattle is estimated at $12.7 billion, and we are currently the third largest beef exporter in the world.10

Like any other new technology, clean meat could disrupt our economy, which would not only affect cattle farmers but also other jobs in the meat supply chain such as feedlot workers, transporte­rs, beef processors and butchers.

But considerin­g Australia is already a world leader in stem cell research for regenerati­ve medicine, there is a lot of potential for us to also become leaders in the clean meat industry. Creating this new market would not only diversify our meat economy but could also advance scientific techniques that might also be applicable in the regenerati­ve medicine sector.

While there are a multitude of time-sensitive issues the clean meat industry must consider before releasing products in supermarke­ts, the potential for this to revolution­ise the future for humans, animals and our planet is mind-boggling.

I'm optimistic that humans are more likely to transition to a clean meat diet, rather than an entirely plant-based diet, for the sake of our health and the environmen­t. Hopefully in the near future, inefficien­t, cruel and unsustaina­ble factory farming will be as obsolete as using horses for transport.

[ This] would not only diversify our meat economy but could also advance scientific techniques that might also be applicable in the regenerati­ve medicine sector.

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 ?? IMAGE: © Scott Bauer - US Dept of Agricultur­e ??
IMAGE: © Scott Bauer - US Dept of Agricultur­e
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IMAGE: © Peter Castleton-flickr
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IMAGE: © Cory Doctorow-flickr
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IMAGE: © Régine Debatty-flickr

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