The Path to Death That Led to Life
Easter has nothing to do with eggs and everything to do with death. During this time every year, thousands of Christians gather in Jerusalem to celebrate Jesus Christ’s resurrection by retracing his final steps and witnessing the mysterious and miraculous
Easter has nothing to do with eggs and everything to do with death. During this time every year, thousands of Christians gather in Jerusalem to celebrate Jesus Christ’s resurrection by retracing his final steps and witnessing the mysterious and miraculous Holy Fire at the place he was buried.
Every year, tens of thousands of Christian pilgrims gather in the Holy City of Jerusalem to celebrate Easter. They walk the city’s alleys, bearing giant crosses and retracing Jesus Christ’s final steps along Via Dolorosa. They end up witnessing the miracle of the Holy Fire at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, where it is believed Jesus Christ was crucified and resurrected.
Historical Significance of Jerusalem
Holy to the three monotheistic religions, Judaism, Christianity, and Islam, Jerusalem is one of the most ancient cities in the world. King David made the city the capital of the Jewish Kingdom when he conquered it some 3000 years ago (in 1000 B.C). Forty years later, his son Solomon built the first of the two holy temples that were centres of prayer and religious gatherings for Jews. This is the city where 12-year-old Jesus’ parents, Mary and Joseph, took him for Passover — a major eight-day Jewish holiday that commemorates how God delivered the Israelites from 400 years of slavery in Egypt (the first and last days are public holidays in Israel today). After the festival, Jesus’ parents found him missing upon returning to their home in Nazareth. Three days later, they found him sitting in the temple of Jerusalem in the company of teachers, deep in conversation, and demonstrating astonishing wisdom.
Jesus Christ: The Reason for Easter
Conceived by the Virgin Mary, Jesus’ birth was foretold, and he was to be the Messiah. According to Christian tradition, at around the age of 30, Jesus was baptised by John the Baptist in the Jordan River. Then, he began a three-year journey, roaming among the Galilean settlements and preaching about his love of God, modesty and the pursuit of peace.
Towards the end of this spiritual journey, Jesus and his 12 disciples, who are known as the first Judeo-Christians, arrived in Jerusalem for Passover. Infuriated by the setting up of a market in the second temple’s courtyard, Jesus drove out all who were buying and selling, accusing them of turning the temple into a den of robbers. That evening, following a meal, famously known as The Last Supper, with his disciples, a large mob comprising religious leaders and Roman soldiers arrested Jesus as one of his disciples had betrayed him. The chief priests and elders were eager to put him to death and many false charges were heaped upon him. Chief among them was blasphemy: calling himself the son of God. After a quick trial before Pontius Pilate, the governor of ancient Judea, Jesus was sentenced to crucifixion at Golgotha and was forced to walk along Via Dolorosa, battered and bruised. Following his death, Jesus was buried in an elaborate tomb purchased by one of his followers. His followers were shocked to discover that his
Occasionally, someone in the crowd loudly exclaimed “Christos Anesti”, which means “Christ has risen’ and the crowd immediately responded in synchronisation with “Alithos Anesti”, which means 'truly he is risen'.
body was missing when they went to his tomb the following morning, a Sunday. Subsequently, Jesus appeared to his followers, who rejoiced at his resurrection.
A Celebration of Triumph Over Death
Easter commemorates the resurrection of Jesus. The week just before Easter is known as
Holy Week, which begins on Palm Sunday and ends on Holy Saturday. The last three days of Holy Week including Maundy Thursday (when Jesus was arrested) and Good Friday (when Jesus was crucified) are collectively called the Easter Triduum (or Paschal Triduum).
Holy Saturday, also called Saturday of Light by Orthodox believers, is when the Holy
Fire miracle occurs in Jerusalem every year. In a ceremony unique to Eastern Orthodox churches, a mysterious fire that symbolises Jesus’ resurrection would descend from heaven and be distributed among believers, who believe it will not burn their hair, faces, or clothes for 33 minutes after its appearance.
By 7am on Holy Saturday, the Old City was crowded with thousands of Christian pilgrims. The police had closed the roads leading to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and only those with pre-booked tickets were allowed to enter. At 10am, a mufti opened the doors of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. The five Christian branches share the church compound, but it is the Muslim Mufti who has the keys to its front doors. Centuries ago, this key was entrusted to two Muslim families, the Joudeh and Nuseibeh families, and hundreds of years later, its descendants are continuing and carrying on this task on a daily basis.
For hours, the air was thick with anticipation among the crowd of believers. Mesmerised,
I watched the Greek Orthodox Patriarch enter the aedicula ( Jesus’s tomb) with the Armenian Patriarch, and together they prayed until a miraculous fire arose from the tomb. At exactly 2pm, I caught a glimpse of the first round of lit torches. It was breathtaking to watch the lighting of four candlesticks holding 33 candles — a number that represents Jesus’ age at the time of his crucifixion. Immediately, the crowd was full of tremendous excitement. Believers erupted in loud whistles and singing among chimes of ringing bells. Occasionally, someone in the crowd loudly exclaimed 'Christos Anesti' which means 'Christ has risen' and the crowd immediately responded in unison with 'Alithos Anesti', which means 'truly he is risen' I could hear the words resounding through the church and the streets. Never have I felt a stronger sense of community.
Within minutes, the fire was passed from hand to hand and thousands of torches illuminated the entire compound. Some believers travel with it to various altars at churches around the city. It is also passed on to other Christian cities and even via special flights to other countries.
Dr. Gilad Fiskus is a Canadian practising dentist who has lived in Israel since his early childhood. He is passionate about capturing cultural rituals, people and traditional ceremonies, and his photos have been published in many travel-related publications.