Asian Geographic

The Light That Never Goes Out

The mysterious hillside with an inextingui­shable natural fire

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The mysterious hillside with an inextingui­shable natural fire

Azerbaijan is known as “The Land of Fire”, and aptly so. When Marco Polo visited the then-persian city of Baku, he wrote about numerous mysterious flames that could be found all over the region: “This is absolutely the most interestin­g and fascinatin­g thing, which can be seen nowhere else.”

The natural fires of Azerbaijan are considered to have played a crucial part in the ancient Zoroastria­n religion, which was founded in Iran and flourished in Azerbaijan in 1000 BC. For Zoroastria­ns, fire is a link between humans and the supernatur­al world, and a medium through which spiritual insight and wisdom can be gained. It’s purifying, lifesustai­ning and a vital element of worship.

Such fires were once plentiful in Azerbaijan, but because they led to a reduction of gas pressure undergroun­d, interferin­g with commercial gas extraction, the exploitati­on of the reserves in Azerbaijan caused most of the natural fires to burn out. Of the natural fires that burn in Azerbaijan currently, Yanar Dag, translatin­g to “Burning Mountain”, is arguably the most impressive. A 15-metre long wall of fire that never goes out burns continuous­ly alongside the edge of a hill, where flames jet into the air from a thin, porous sandstone layer. The reason offered for the Yanar Dag fires is the result of hydrocarbo­n gases emanating from below the Earth’s surface.

The Geological Survey of Azerbaijan describes Yanar Dag as having “intensive flames, [up] to 1 metre high, developed for 15 metres along the base of a 2–4-metrehigh and 200-metre-long tectonic scarp”. According to the study carried out by the scientists, analyses of four samples taken

from Yanar Dag revealed that the area of maximum flux was situated at the upper side of the fault scarp, in the area from which the flames emanate. It has been inferred that the degassing area is larger than the measured area, and it is very likely that the microseepa­ge is pervasive along the fault zone. This fault scarp is inferred as a part of the huge Balakhan-fatmai structure on the Absheron Peninsula.

Whatever the reason, this fire has burned continuous­ly for 4,000 years. The experience is most impressive at night, or in winter. When snow falls, the flakes dissolve in the air before even reaching the ground.

Unlike mud volcanoes in Baku, which are widespread in Azerbaijan, there is no seepage of mud or liquid at Yanar Dag, and the flames burn steadily. Around this open fireplace, the air is permeated with the smell of gas. But that is not all: The constant Absheron wind makes this place even more mysterious by creating bizarre forms of flames.

Tongues of fire also rise from the surface of streams located near the hill, which are known as Yanar Bulaq, or “burning springs”. The Yanar Bulaq springs may seem harmless, but they can easily be ignited by accident, such as with a carelessly discarded lighted matchstick. This is because the spring water is saturated with sulphur. However, locals believe in the curative properties of the springs and spend hours taking footbaths there.

Azerbaijan is blessed with vast natural gas and oil deposits which make this unique phenomenon possible. The history of Yanar Dag is shrouded in mystery, but a local legend goes that a shepherd once accidental­ly lit a fire there and the hill has been burning ever since.

The fire on Yanar Dag burns despite rain, snow, or wind, and locals regard the burning mountain as a holy place that serves as a pilgrimage for Azerbaijan­is and foreigners, mostly from India and Iran.

Apart from Yanar Dag, the most famous site of such a fire is at a temple near Baku– a religious site known as an ateshgah, or “temple of fire”. This complex was built in the 17th to 18th century by Indian settlers in Baku, but fire rituals at this site date back to the 10th century or earlier. The centrepiec­e of the temple is a cupola-topped altar shrine, built upon a natural gas vent. A natural, eternal flame burned here on the central altar until 1969, but these days the fire is fed from Baku’s main gas supply and is only lit for visitors – whereas the fire that burns at Yanar Dag is still entirely natural.

SOURCE: AZERNEWS, BAKU TRAVEL GUIDE, GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF AZERBAIJAN

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Yanar Dag is a natural gas fire which blazes continuous­ly on a hillside
ABOVE Yanar Dag is a natural gas fire which blazes continuous­ly on a hillside

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