Asian Geographic

JEJU island

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Some call Jeju Island the crown jewel of South Korea. Others have dubbed it the “Hawaii of South Korea”. Located in the southernmo­st part of the country, Jeju Island is also known as the “Island of the Gods” and its history is still largely unknown and debated by historians. Many believe that the island came into existence around two million years ago in a series of volcanic eruptions. And while the mainland was being ruled by the famed Three Kingdoms of Silla, Baekje and Goguryeo, Jeju was governed by the mysterious Tamna Kingdom.

Beyond the spectacula­r landscapes and visiting local honeymoone­rs lies a dark history that islanders have lived with for more than 70 years. After the end of World War II, an uprising pitted Jeju islanders against the police, the US military and the newly formed South Korean government. To stop the unrest, the government in Seoul declared military rule to put an end to the uprising, which led to an ensuing conflict that left 30,000 civilians dead and those who survived were branded traitors and communists. For a long time, the memories of the massacre (now known as “Jeju 4.3” after the date it began, on April 3, 1948) were suppressed but in recent years, the South Korean government, police and defence ministry have apologised for their roles in the killings. Tourists who visit Jeju Island are now even able to learn first-hand about one of the most gruesome incidents in Korean history.

An incredibly diverse and fascinatin­g island, Jeju may have had a dark past, but that has not stopped the locals from living every day to the fullest, and the island has remained one of the country’s must-visit places.

The Manjanggul Lava Tube is one of the largest in the world

CONQUER MOUNT HALLASAN

Rising from the centre of the island, Hallasan Mountain is South Korea’s tallest peak and can be seen from most vantage points around the island. Standing 1,950 metres above sea level, Hallasan is a dormant volcano with a lake crater at its summit. The entire area around the mountain is called Hallasan National Park and was designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 2002 and a World Heritage Site in 2007. For hiking junkies, there are a total of six courses that you can climb but only two – Gwaneumsa Trail and Seongpanak Trail – go to the peak, where Baengnokda­m Lake is located. Every season at Hallasan provides a different view, but it is most renowned for its springtime beauty when the azaleas are in full bloom.

MANJANGGUL LAVA TUBE (MANJANGGUL CAVE)

Another UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Manjanggul Lava Tube is one of the largest in the world and is definitely a must-visit for anyone visiting Jeju. This natural phenomenon was formed when lava that was beneath the ground flowed up to the surface, hardened and formed a crust. The lava below then continued flowing until it hollowed out forming a tunnel. The beauty of the Manjanggul Lava Tube is that its features are all distinct and extremely well maintained. Only around a kilometre of the 13-kilometre-long tube is open to tourists, so a round-trip around this attraction will only take you around an hour.

HIKE UP SEONGSAN ILCHULBONG

Otherwise known as Sunshine Peak, Seongsan Ilchulbong is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and another one of Jeju’s must-see natural attraction­s. The 180-metre-tall crater, which rose from under the sea over 10,000 years ago due to a volcanic eruption, is considered the best spot on Jeju to watch the sun rise over the ocean. A rather steep hike, it will take you around an hour to get to the crater rim and is best visited in the spring.

Catch a Glimpse of the Incredible Haenyeo Ladies

Translatin­g to “sea women”, the haenyeo are traditiona­l divers who harvest seafood by hand from the ocean floor. These incredible ladies catch seafood for a living with only a knife and and a mask, typically freediving to around 10 metres. They will often slice up their catch straight away, offering watching tourists fresh seafood right out of the ocean. It is important to note that these ladies don’t put on a scripted performanc­e, rather tours are set up as a way for travellers to be able to experience the culture of the locals on Jeju. The haenyeo should always be treated respectful­ly, so ensure you always enquire politely whether you can take photos.

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A beautiful canola field at Seongsan Ilchulbong
ABOVE A beautiful canola field at Seongsan Ilchulbong
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The haenyeo have been diving Jeju’s waters for centuries; the all-female freedivers gather shellfish, seaweed and other sea life; the haenyeo’s fresh catch of the day;
haenyeo numbers are steadily declining, the majority being well over 50 years old
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT The haenyeo have been diving Jeju’s waters for centuries; the all-female freedivers gather shellfish, seaweed and other sea life; the haenyeo’s fresh catch of the day; haenyeo numbers are steadily declining, the majority being well over 50 years old
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