Routeburn Track
Type: Point to point
Time: 3–4 days
Grade: Easy–moderate Independent/Guided: Both available
YES, THE WELL-KNOWN Milford Track is right next door, but for those looking to jam in the most of the spectacle that is NZ’s Southern Alps (think snow-clad mountains, wild alpine rivers, thundering waterfalls or beech forests of multiple shades of green), the Routeburn Track ranks, in my view, as the best of the NZ Great Walks.
It can be walked in either direction independently, or one-way if you opt for the guided experience. The east– west option for independent walkers starts at the Routeburn Road end in Mt Aspiring National Park (just west of the small town of Glenorchy; there is bus transport that you can book). For independents and guided walkers going west–east, the start’s at The Divide, along Milford Road in Fiordland NP. Guided groups (Ultimate Hikes runs the only guided option on this track) start from The Divide and head east, enjoying lighter backpacks and the luxurious Ultimate Hikes lodges (located at Lake Mackenzie and Routeburn Falls).
Our preference (as independent walkers) would be to start from the eastern point at the Routeburn Road end and get the climb up to Routeburn Falls Hut out of the way on the first day. The walk to Falls Hut is an adventure in itself, crossing the Route Burn (river), and then slowly but steadily ascending the well-graded track to what is one of NZ’s most dramatically situated DOC huts. Perched high above the river valley (and Mt Somnus), and with the hut’s namesake waterfall roaring down the mountain right beside it, it’s brilliant.
The second day on the Routeburn continues this spectacular theme. Walkers climb above the hut, alongside Routeburn Falls, before passing Lake Harris, crossing Harris Saddle and then winding along the (near) top of the Serpentine Range. This section of the walk affords views of the Hollyford River valley, before descending to Lake Mackenzie Hut, located beside its namesake. The final day involves an initial climb, passing Earland Falls on the way, before descending to Howden Hut (beside Lake Howden) and then climbing up again to The Divide, on Milford Road. One side-track not to miss here is the 1.5-hour return to Key Summit, which has fantastic views across the Darran Mountains to the north. On a clear day, you will also spot remote Lake Marian
(see “A Day in the Wild”, page 115).