Australian How to Paint

My Self Portrait

- By Hendrik Gericke

With plenty of tips and instructio­ns, this artist shows how he created this impressive self-portrait.

STEP ONE

Working directly from life means I can start with minimal preparatio­n. This also teaches us to work quickly and adapt to changing situations (particular­ly when plein air painting). In this case, working indoors meant having a more controlled environmen­t for the sake of this demonstrat­ion.

The initial step involves sketching using a large brush and broad strokes. I stay at arm’s length and remain standing while I paint, which allows me to step back with ease, keeping things in proportion by getting a good overview.

I sketch using a thin ink wash. For this to work, the canvas/board must be primed with water based paint, typically acrylic (as opposed to oils). This had a fast drying time, allowing me to proceed quickly.

STEP TWO

Here we proceed to work in more detail, nailing down the defining features of the subject using a slightly darker wash.

STEP THREE

With the line-work clearly marked, I proceed to lay the image out tonally, determinin­g where the lights and the darks will fall. This is easier to do when working in monochrome, but I just as often do this with oils with Payne’s Grey or Burnt Umber.

STEP FOUR

Here I have added some final heavy lines to clearly mark out the sketch, which has been changed slightly towards the end of the drawing phase. Once the final inks are dry, I block the major colour areas. I do this using oils, thinned to the level of a wash, simply giving a tint to the painting, rather than a thick oil base. In doing so, the underpaint­ing can be used to guide subsequent stages.

STEP FIVE

The light and dark areas are further developed, showing the nuanced lighting of the subject. With oils, one tends to work more towards the dark end of the tonal range, allowing us to punch out the lighter areas and highlights as we progress. (This is the inverse of watercolou­r, where the dark areas and shadows are the last marks we make. The inverse of highlights, basically.)

STEP SIX

Care is taken in developing the surface textures and effects of direct and indirect light falling on the subject. Painting from life allows us to develop our observatio­n of a subject, to interpret light and colour in a way that translates on an instinctiv­e level. When working from photograph­ic reference, the colours are locked and can be slavishly duplicated, while working from

life, we are forced to really consider the colours we are looking at. Our eyes are capable of perceiving far more tonal and spectral detail than a camera.

FINAL STEP

For the final step, emphasis is placed on the focal area of the painting, details and highlights are more pronounced in areas where we want the viewer’s eyes to go. Peripheral areas are given a broad, soft treatment which draws less attention, softening the focus. Now I simply fill in background and place the final highlights.

It is always tricky deciding when to finish a painting, as the risk of overworkin­g it and doing too much can kill the vibrancy of your brushwork. I tend to back off early rather than going too far, trying instead to capture a scene or a likeness in as few strokes as possible.

My website is www.flyingdutc­hmanart.com where work can be viewed, purchased or commission­ed. Contact me at hendrikger­icke@gmail.com Other handy links are: www.facebook.com/flying.dutchman.art and hendrikger­icke.tumblr.com/ I

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FINAL STEP
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STEP TWO
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STEP FOUR A
STEP FOUR B
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STEP SIX
STEP FIVE A STEP FIVE B STEP SIX

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