Man’s Jacket
Design by Mari Lynn Patrick for Naturally Yarns
YARN
• 14, 15, 16, 17 hanks 50gm 10ply Harmony Aran #801
• Six 25mm buttons
NEEDLES AND TOOLS
• 4mm knitting needles
• 4.5mm knitting needles
• 4.5mm circular needle 60cm long
• stitch holders
• stitch markers
MEASUREMENTS
To fit: Small, Medium, Large, X-Large Finished Fit: 101.5, 106.5, 111.5, 119cm
Finished Length: 70, 71, 73.5, 75cm Sleeve Length: 47, 49.5, 51, 52cm
SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS
wyib – with yarn in back wyif – with yarn in front kfb – knit into front and back of next st pfb – purl into front and back of next st;
TENSION
20 sts by 26 rows over Stocking Stitch on 4.5mm needles to10cm
22 sts by 28 rows over Broken Rib Pattern on 4.5mm needles to10cm
GETTING STARTED
3-needle cast-off: With the right side of the two pieces facing each other, and the needles parallel, insert a third needle knitwise into the first stitch of each needle. Wrap the yarn around the needle as if to knit; knit these two stitches together and slip them off the needles. *Knit the next two stitches together in the same way; slip the first stitch on the third needle over the second stitch and off the needle. Repeat from * across row until all the stitches are cast off. One-Row-Buttonhole: Step 1) Work the row up to the point where the buttonhole will begin. Bring the yarn to the front of the work. Slip one stitch from the left needle to the right and then return the yarn to the back of the work and leave it there. Step 2) Slip another stitch from the left needle to the right. Pass the first slipped stitch over it - one buttonhole stitch cast off. Repeat once more. Slip remaining buttonhole stitch back to left needle. Step 3) Turn your work. The yarn should be at the beg of the left needle; bring it to the back. Using a cable cast-on, cast on 3 sts. Step 4) Turn your work and keep the yarn to the back. Slip the first stitch from left needle to right and pass extra cast-on stitch over it. Resume working across row, making additional buttonholes as above.
BROKEN RIB PATTERN (OVER A MULTIPLE OF 3 STS PLUS 1)
ROW 1: RS - K1, *p2, k1; rep from * to end.
ROW 2: P1, *k2, p1; rep from * to end.
ROW 3: Rep row 1.
ROW 4: Rep row 2.
ROW 5: Knit.
ROW 6: Purl.
Rep rows 1-6 for Broken Rib patt.
WORKING PATTERN BACK
With 4mm needles, cast on 109 (115, 121, 127) sts.
ROW 1: RS - P1, *k2, p1; rep from * to end.
ROW 2: end.
Cont in k2, p1 rib as established for 6.5cm or 17 rows.
Change to 4.5mm needles.
K1 row, p2 rows.
NEXT ROW: RS - K to last st, sl last st wyib (selvage st).
NEXT ROW: WS - P to last st, sl last st wyif (selvage st).
Cont in Stst (with selvage sts) for 7.5cm more.
DEC ROW: RS - K4, k2tog, k to last 6 sts, skp, work to end.
K1, *p2, k1; rep from * to
Rep dec row every 14th row 3 times more. 101 (107, 113, 119) sts.
Work even until piece measures 46 (46, 47, 47) cm from beg, end with a WS row.
SHAPE ARMHOLES
Note: Discontinue the selvage sts in the armhole.
Cast off 5 sts at beg of next 2 rows.
DEC ROW 1: RS - K to the last 4 sts, skp, k2.
DEC ROW 2: WS - P to the last 4 sts,
p2tog, p2.
Rep (dec rows 1 & 2) 1 (2, 3, 4) times more – 87 (91, 95, 99) sts. Work even until armhole meas 21.5 (23, 24, 25.5) cm.
Note: Place marker to mark the centre 25 (27, 29, 31) sts on last WS row.
SHAPE SHOULDERS
Cast off 4 sts at beg of next 12
(14, 12, 10) rows, 3 (0, 5, 5) sts at beg of next 2 (0, 2, 4) rows, at same time, as the first shoulder castoff, join a 2nd ball of yarn and cast off the 25 (27, 29, 31) sts between markers and working both sides at once, cast off 4 sts from each neck edge once.
Note: The back shoulder has a very deep slope and it will fit at the neck to wrap around to the front shoulder in the finishing.
LEFT FRONT
With 4mm needles, cast on 46 (49, 52, 55) sts.
K2, p1 rib as on Back for 17 rows. Change to 4.5mm needles.
K1 row. P1 row.
BEGIN POCKET
ROW 1: WS – (Pfb, p12) 3 times, p1, sl the rem 6 (9, 12, 15) sts to a st holder to be worked later. Work on the
43 pocket sts only in Broken Rib pat for 7 reps, end with a RS patt row 5. Change to 4mm needles.
K1 row, p2 rows then work in k2, p1 rib for 3 rows. Cast off in rib.
Return to sts on st holder and from the WS of the piece, with 4.5mm needles, pick up and k 40 sts along the WS base of the pocket, p the 6 (9, 12, 15) sts from holder. 46 (49, 52, 55) sts.
Cont in Stst (with sl st selvage each side as on back) for 7.5cm.
DEC ROW: RS - K4, k2tog, work to end. Rep dec row every 14th row 3 times more. 42 (45, 48, 51) sts.
Work even until piece measures same as Back to armhole.
SHAPE ARMHOLE
Cast off 5 sts at beg of next RS row. P1 row, k1 row.
DEC ROW: WS - P to the last 4 sts, p2tog, p2.
Rep dec row every other row 1 (2, 3, 4) times more. 35 (37, 39, 41) sts. Work 2 rows even.
NECK DEC ROW: RS - K to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Rep neck dec row every 6th row 7 (8, 7, 7) times more, then every 4th row 0 (0, 2, 3) times. 27 (28, 29, 30) sts. Work even until armhole measures 21.5 (23, 24, 25.5) cm.
P1 (RS) row, k1 (WS) row. Leave sts on hold for finishing later.
RIGHT FRONT
Work as for Left Front reversing placement of pocket and all shaping.
SLEEVES
With 4mm needles, cast on 52 (55, 58, 64) sts.
K2, p1 rib as on Back for 6 rows.
INC ROW: RS - Inc 1 st each side of row in established rib.
Rep inc row every 8th row twice more. 58 (61, 64, 70) sts.
Work even until piece meas 9cm from beg.
Change to 4.5mm needles.
BEGIN BROKEN RIB
Beg with row 1 of Broken Rib patt, work in Broken Rib patt inc’ing 1 st each side (in patt) every 6th row 18 times. 94 (97, 100, 106) sts.
Work even until piece meas 47 (49.5, 51, 52) cm from beg.
SHAPE CAP
Cast off 5 sts at beg of next 2 rows, 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows.
DEC ROW 1: RS - P1, skp, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, p1.
Rep dec row 1 every other row 14 (15, 16, 18) times more. 48 (49, 50, 52) sts.
DEC ROW 2: WS - K1, p2tog, work to the last 3 sts, p2tog tbl, k1.
NEXT ROW: RS - Rep dec row 1.
Rep (the last 2 rows) 3 times more. Then rep dec row 2 on next row.
Cast off 5 sts at beg of next 2 rows, 4 sts at beg of next 2 rows.
Cast off rem 12 (13, 14, 16) sts.
MAKING UP
Do not block or press pieces.
To join the shoulders, pick up and k 27 (28, 29, 30) sts along one shaped back shoulder. Using the 3-needle cast-off method, join the shoulder to the matching front working the cast-off on the RS for a ridge detail that shows on the RS. Rep for other shoulder.
Set in sleeves. Sew side and sleeve seams.
Place markers at 9cm down from the shoulder seam on each front for the lapel edge.
RIGHT LAPEL
With 4mm needles, pick up and k 12 sts along the ribbed border of the front, then 28 sts through both the front
and pocket thickness (to enclose the pocket), 54 (57, 63, 66) sts to the neck marker. 94 (97, 103, 106) sts. P2 rows. K2 rows.
Work Broken Rib patt, beg with row 2 of pat, work (rows 2-6) once, then (rows 1-6) twice.
INC ROW: RS - Work in patt to the last 2 sts, inc 1 st in patt, k1.
Rep inc row every 4th row twice more. 97 (100, 106, 109) sts.
Cont in patt until row 5 of the 5th patt rep is completed. Cast off in k2, p1 rib.
LEFT LAPEL
Work to match Right Lapel for 7 rows. Note: Use the one-row buttonhole method.
BUTTONHOLE ROW: RS (row 5 of patt st) - K28 (31, 34, 37), (cast off 2 sts for buttonhole, k16) twice, cast off 2 sts, k to end.
Work the buttonhole row again on the 4th rep of row 5, AT SAME TIME, inc at neck edge and complete as for Right Lapel.
COLLAR
With 4.5mm circular needle, working from the WS of the neck edge, pick up and k 84 (87, 90, 93) sts evenly around neck edge. Cut yarn and slide sts to opposite end of needle. Rejoin yarn to beg pat on the WS and p1 row.
INC ROW 2: RS - P1, pfb, p to last 2 sts, pfb, p1.
ROW 3: Knit.
ROW 4: K1, kfb, k to the last 3 sts, kfb, k2 – 88 (91, 94, 97) sts.
ROW 5: P1, * k2, p1; rep from * to end (this is row 2 of pat st).
NEXT 10 ROWS: Cont in established Broken Rib patt inc 1 st each side every RS row 4 times more. Work 2 rows even. Place marker each side of last row.
Then, work even in patt until same number of rows as Lapels. Cast off in k2, p1 rib.
Sew the shaped edges of the collar, up to the markers, to the lapels so that the seam is on the WS of the collar when folded back.
Sew sides of pockets to fronts. Sew on buttons.