Oversized Drop-Waist Coat

Design by Mari Lynn Patrick for Naturally Yarns

YARN

19, 20, 22 50gm 10ply hanks Harmony Aran in shade #800 2 buttons, 1 medium size snap fastener

NEEDLES AND TOOLS

4mm knitting needles

4.5mm knitting needles

5mm knitting needles

4.5mm circular needle 60cm long stitch holders stitch markers

MEASUREMENTS

Size: Small, Medium, Large Finished fit: 106.5, 113, 119cm Garment length: 85.5, 87, 88cm Sleeve length: 28, 28, 28cm

SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS

wyib – with yarn in back wyif – with yarn in front

TENSION

26 sts by 26 rows over Pattern Stitch 1 on 5mm needles to 10cm

23 sts by 30 rows over Pattern Stitch 2 on 4.5mm needles to 10cm

GETTING STARTED PATTERN STITCH 1 (OVER EVEN NUMBER OF STS)

ROW 1: RS - Knit.

ROW 2: WS - K1, *sl 2 wyif, put yarn to back, sl the same 2 sts back to LH needle and k them one at a time; rep from *, end k1.

ROW 3: K1, *p1, sl 1 wyib; rep from *, end k1.

Row 4: K1, *sl 1 wyif, k1; rep from *, end k1.

Rep rows 1-4 for Pattern Stitch 1.

PATTERN STITCH 2 (OVER A MULTIPLE OF 4 STS)

LT - Skip next st and k into back of 2nd st, k skipped st and let both sts fall from needle.

RT - Skip next st and k into front of 2nd st, k skipped st and let both sts fall from needle.

ROW 1: WS - Purl.

ROW 2: K1, p2, *LT, p2; rep from *, end k1.

ROW 3: K3, *p2, k2; rep from *, end k1.

ROW 4: K3, *RT, k2; rep from *, end k1.

ROW 5: Purl.

ROW 6: K1, *LT, p2; rep from *, end

LT, k1.

ROW 7: K1, p2, *k2, p2; rep from *, end k1.

ROW 8: K1, *RT, k2; rep from *, end

RT, k1.

Rep rows 1-8 for Pattern Stitch 2.

ONE-ROW-BUTTONHOLE

STEP 1: Work the row up to the point where buttonhole will begin; bring yarn to the front of the work; slip one st from left needle to the right and then return the yarn to the back of the work and leave it there.

STEP 2: Slip another st from left needle to the right; pass the first slipped st over it - one buttonhole stitch cast off. Repeat once more. Slip rem buttonhole st back to left needle. STEP 3: Turn your work; the yarn should be at beg of left needle; bring it to the back. Using a cable cast-on, cast on 3 sts. Step 4) Turn your work and keep the yarn to the back. Slip the first st from left needle to right and pass extra cast-on st over it. Resume working across row, making additional buttonholes as above.

WORKING PATTERN BACK BELT

Beg at the left side seam edge, with 4mm needles, cast on 18 sts. Work Pattern Stitch 1 for approx 45.5 (48, 51) cm OR a total of 34 (36, 38) x 4-row repeats.

Last Row: RS - K1, [k2, k2tog] 4 times, k1.

Cast off, do not fasten off.

Note: The beg of RS rows will curve and be wider than the edge at the end of RS rows. This wider edge will be worked into for the skirt.

BACK SKIRT

With attached yarn and working from the WS of the back belt (to form a ridge on the RS), with 5mm needles, pick up and k 136 (144, 152) sts along this edge (that is, pick up 1 st in every row along the edge).

Work in Pattern Stitch 1 for 16 rows (or 4 reps).

*INC ROW: RS – K40, pm, kfb in each of next 2 sts (for inc 2 sts), k to the last 42 sts, kfb in each of the next 2 sts (for inc 2 sts), pm, k40 – 4 sts inc’d.

Patt Stitch 1 even for 15 rows.*

Rep from * to * (the last 16 rows) 3 times more. 152 (160, 168) sts. Work even until there are 20 total reps of the 4-row pat AND skirt meas 30.5cm.

NEXT ROW: RS - Knit.

Change to 4mm needles.

NEXT ROW: WS - Hem facing – (K2, k2tog) 38 (40, 42) times. 114 (120, 126) sts.

[K1 row, p1 row] twice.

K1 row. Cast off.

BACK BODICE

Working from the WS (to create a ridge on the RS) with 4.5mm needles, pick up and k sts along opposite side of belt as foll:

*Pick up and k 4 sts in each of the next 4 rows, pick up and k3 sts in each of the foll 4 rows; rep from * to end. 119 (126, 133) sts.

ROW 1: RS - Knit, inc 1 (2, 3) st. 120 (128, 136) sts.

Then beg with row 1 of Pattern Stitch 2, work even in Pattern Stitch 2 for 23cm.

SHAPE ARMHOLES

Cast off 4 sts at beg of next 2 rows, 2 sts at beg of next 8 rows. 96 (104, 112) sts.

Work even until armhole meas 11.5 (12.5, 14) cm.

INC ROW: RS - K1, inc 1 st, work to last 2 sts, inc 1 st, k1.

Rep inc row every 4th row 6 times more. 110 (118, 126) sts.

Work even until armhole meas 20.5 (21.5, 23) cm.

Note: Place markers to mark the centre 44 (44, 46) sts on last WS row.

SHAPE NECK AND SHOULDERS

Cast off 4 sts at beg of next 8 rows. NEXT ROW: RS - Cast off 6 (8, 10) sts, work to center marked sts, join a 2nd ball of yarn and cast off center

44 (44, 46) sts, work to end.

Working both sides at once, cont to cast off 6 (8, 10) sts from left shoulder edge once, then 6 (8, 9) sts from both shoulder edges once AND cast off 5 sts from each neck edge once.

POCKETS (MAKE 2)

Beg at top edge, with size 4.5mm needles, cast on 38 sts.

K1 row, p1 row.

NEXT ROW: RS – (K5, kfb) 6 times, k2. 44 sts.

Beg with row 1, work Pattern Stitch 2 for 16.5cm or 48 rows.

DEC ROW 1: WS - P1, p2tog, p to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1.

DEC ROW 2: K1, p2tog, k1, p2, *LT, p2; rep from *, end k1, p2tog, k1.

DEC ROW 3: K1, SKP *k2, p2; rep from *, end k2, k2tog, k1.

DEC ROW 4: K1, SKP, k1, *RT, k2; rep from *, end RT, k1, k2tog, k1.

DEC ROW 5: Rep dec row 1. 34 sts. Leave sts on holder (to join to front later).

LEFT FRONT – BELT

Beg at center front edge, with 4mm needles, cast on 18 sts.

Work Pattern Stitch 1 for 16 (17, 18) reps.

LAST ROW: RS - K1, [k2, k2tog] 4 times, k1. Cast off, do not fasten off.

LEFT FRONT SKIRT

From WS, with 5mm needles, pick up and k 64 (68, 72) sts as on Back Skirt, then work Pattern Stitch 1 for 16 rows (4 reps).

*INC ROW: RS - K to the last 8 sts, kfb in each of next 2 sts, k to end.

Pattern Stitch 1 even for 15 rows.* Rep from * to * (the last 16 rows) 3 times more – 72 (76, 80) sts.

Pattern Stitch 1 even until there are 17 total reps of the 4-row patt.

JOIN POCKETS

NEXT ROW: RS - Holding the pocket sts at front, first k12 sts on the left front then *k1 st from the pocket at front with 1 st from the needle at back together; rep from * until all 34 pocket sts are joined, k to end.

Work even until there are 20 total reps of the 4-row patt.

NEXT ROW: RS - Knit.

Change to 4mm needles.

NEXT ROW: WS - Hem facing – (K2, k2tog) 18 (19, 20) times. 54 (57, 60) sts.

Complete as for Back hem facing.

LEFT FRONT BODICE

From WS, pick up and k 56 (60, 64) sts as on Back bodice; then, work in Pattern Stitch 2 for 23cm.

SHAPE ARMHOLE

Cast off 4 sts from armhole edge once, 2 sts 4 times. 44 (48, 52) sts. Work even until armhole meas 11.5 (12.5, 14) cm.

INC ROW: RS - K1, inc 1 st, work to end.

Rep inc row every 4th row 6 times more AT SAME TIME, when armhole meas 15 (16.5, 18) cm, end with a RS row and work as foll:

SHAPE NECK

NEXT ROW: WS - Cast off 10 sts, work to end. Cont to shape neck casting off 2 sts from neck edge 5 times, 1 st 3 (3, 4) times, AT SAME TIME, when armhole meas same as Back, shape shoulder by casting off from shoulder edge 4 sts 4 times, then 6 (8, 10) sts once, then 6 (8, 9) sts once.

RIGHT FRONT

Work as for Left Front, reversing all shaping and placement of pocket.

SLEEVE CUFF

With 4mm needles, cast on 18 sts. Work Pattern Stitch 1 for 23 (24, 25) reps.

Work last row as on back belt and cast off.

MAIN SLEEVE

With 5mm needles from the WS pick up and k 1 st in each row for 92 (96, 100) sts.

Work Pattern Stitch 1 for 12 rows.

INC ROW: RS - K6, kfb in each of next 2 sts, k to last 8 sts, kfb in each of next 2 sts, k6 – 4 sts inc’d.

Rep inc row every 12th row 3 times more. 108 (112, 116) sts.

Work even until piece meas 33cm from beg (or 25.5cm in Pattern Stitch 1).

SHAPE CAP

Cast off 4 sts at beg of next 4 rows. Cast off 2 sts at beg of next 24 (26, 28) rows.

Cast off 4 sts at beg of next 4 rows. 28 sts.

Then, *cast off 2 sts, k2tog, slip the first over the 2nd st on right hand needle to cast off; rep from * until all sts are cast off.

MAKING UP

Sew shoulder seams. Set sleeve into armholes. Sew side and sleeve seams.

Sew pockets in place to fronts. Sew facing in place.

LEFT FRONT BAND

From WS (to create a ridge on the

RS), with 4.5mm circular needle, pick up and k 168 (170, 172) sts along the left front center edge. Work Pattern Stitch 1 for 20 rows.

LAST ROW: RS - *K2, k2tog; rep from * end row with k0 (2, 0) sts. Cast off firmly knitwise.

RIGHT FRONT BAND

Work as for Left Front band for 10 rows.

BUTTONHOLE ROW: RS - Work to the last 43 sts, cast off 4 sts (using 1 row buttonhole method as explained above), work 26 sts, cast off 4 sts, work 9 sts.

Complete as for left front band.

COLLAR

With 4.5mm circular needles, from the RS, beg at the center of the 20-row band pick up and k 6 sts in the right front band, 40 (40, 41) sts up front neck, 48 (48, 50) sts from the back neck, 40 (40, 41) sts down left front neck, 6 sts in the left front band. 140 (140, 144) sts.

K1 row then work 4 rows in Pattern Stitch 1.

Cont in Pattern Stitch 1, cast off 2 sts at beg of next 16 rows. 108 (108, 112) sts.

Cut yarn and rejoin at beg of the next RS row and pick up and k 16 sts along the shaped edge of the collar, work [k2, k2tog] 27 (27, 28) times across the sts on the needle, pick up and k16 sts along the opposite shaped edge of the collar. Cast off firmly knitwise.

Tack collar down so that it stays in place.

Sew on buttons. Sew snap fastener to front bands (at centre of belt).

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