THE BURBS

Life on the fringe has never been so good.

Australian Traveller - - Contents -

PAR­RA­MATTA, NSW

Par­ra­matta, and neigh­bour­ing Har­ris Park, have a lock on EAT some of the best In­dian food in Syd­ney, from dosa to biryani; try Gin­ger In­dian Restau­rant for de­li­cious North In­dian cur­ries. There is no sig­nage at Un­cle Kurt’s; it’s hid­den below a car DRINK park (Hor­wood Place). If you do man­age to lo­cate it, you will find a graf­fiti-daubed space serv­ing up se­ri­ous cock­tails and NY deli fare. What with a re­vamped Tropfest film fes­ti­val (tropfest.org.au) PLAY that took place in Par­ra­matta Park this year; the Syd­ney Fes­ti­val pro­gram get­ting big­ger and bet­ter here each year (in­clud­ing the ever pop­u­lar Spiegel­tent); the River­side The­atre (river­side­par­ra­matta. com.au) at­tract­ing artists and per­form­ers from all over the world; and the colour­ful Par­ra­masala fes­ti­val (par­ra­masala.com), a three-day cel­e­bra­tion of the di­verse cul­tures that thrive in the greater Syd­ney area, there’s never a dull mo­ment in Par­ra­matta, lit­er­ally!

MANLY, NSW

Learn­ing to surf is al­most a rite of pas­sage for Aus­tralians given our land is girt by sea, and a favourite place to learn some board ba­sics is on the sands of the cel­e­brated north­ern Syd­ney beach­side sub­urb of Manly. Lessons at Manly Surf School (manly­surf­school.com) are stacks of fun, with adult and kids’ lessons through­out the year. Then dry off and head to one of the many cafes serv­ing up se­ri­ous cof­fee and beach­side cool: the lovely Boathouse at Shelly Beach (the­boathous­esb.com.au) with its In­sta­gram-wor­thy in­te­ri­ors; the Nordic cool of Fika Swedish Kitchen (fikaswedishk­itchen.com.au); or Bare­foot Cof­fee Traders (bare­foot­cof­fee.com.au) and Show­box Cof­fee Brew­ers (show­box­cof­fee.com.au), al­ways packed with lo­cals.

BURLEIGH HEADS, QLD

“I es­cape to Burleigh at any op­por­tu­nity I can get. To me, it is the cap­i­tal of the new­era Gold Coast. It has such a pos­i­tive pull, a real sense of com­mu­nity and a very re­laxed at­mos­phere. Burleigh has been re­vi­talised into a dy­namic and con­tem­po­rary des­ti­na­tion, whilst ef­fort­lessly pay­ing tribute to its glit­ter­ing 1960s surf town his­tory.” Kara Rosen­lund, travel, doc­u­men­tary and life­style pho­tog­ra­pher

COTTES­LOE, WA

A In­dian Ocean al­ter­na­tive to its Bondi big sis­ter, Sculp­ture by the Sea, Cottes­loe is staged on the beach here each March. Found­ing di­rec­tor David Han­d­ley ex­plains why you should visit this Per th sub­urb for longer. of Aus­tralia’s most stun­ning beaches with views to COTTES­LOE IS ONE the hori­zon that seem to stretch for­ever – and Perth has ar­guably the best sun­sets of any ma­jor city in the world. The am­phithe­atre look­ing onto the beach from un­der the shade of the pine trees gives you a dif­fer­ent per­spec­tive of the walk to com­pare with when you walk along the sand. come from all across Perth and south-west OVER 200,000 PEO­PLE Western Aus­tralia to see the ex­hi­bi­tion. Each Fri­day to Sun­day evening Cottes­loe Beach be­comes Perth’s gi­ant passeg­giata with thou­sands of peo­ple wan­der­ing among the sculp­tures on the beach as the sun sets over the In­dian Ocean. It is the most ex­tra­or­di­nary re­laxed com­mu­nity vibe. you should visit two or three times as the sculp­tures MOST PEO­PLE SAY and the at­mos­phere change at dif­fer­ent times of day. My favourite times are to beat the crowds with an early morn­ing wan­der around the sculp­tures fol­lowed by a swim and then break­fast at John Street Café. Or ar­rive around 5pm to soak up the at­mos­phere of the sun­set crowds on the sand be­fore head­ing to Il Lido for drinks and din­ner. Make sure you drop into ‘Sculp­ture In­side’, our ex­hi­bi­tion of small in­door works in a large walk-in mar­quee on the Sea View Golf course across the road from the beach. I am jeal­ous of ev­ery­one eat­ing fish and chips un­der the trees watch­ing the sun­set be­fore or af­ter a beer at the Cottes­loe Beach Ho­tel.

CABRAMATTA, NSW

The south-western Syd­ney sub­urb of Cabramatta, lo­cated roughly 30 kilo­me­tres from the city, serves up a cul­tural melt­ing pot of eth­nic­i­ties, cui­sine and cul­ture. Here, five spots to sam­ple on your next visit: of Syd­ney prides it­self on its WHILE THE REST cof­fee cul­ture, tea is hero here. Te­abags T-shop serves sweet, re­fresh­ing fruit teas served in easy to carry zip-lock bags. with the lo­cal cui­sine by GET HANDS ON or­der­ing the DIY rice pa­per rolls op­tion at var­i­ous eater­ies in and around John Street; Phu Quoc is a favourite with lo­cals. wait­ing for IF THE SIZE OF THE CROWD ta­bles is your met­ric of how good a restau­rant is, Pho Ann might be the best around, with lo­cals milling pa­tiently at the en­trance watch­ing those in­side slurp up bowls of the del­i­cate broth. Sieu Thi Dong EAST­LAND SU­PER­MAR­KET Khanh has aisle af­ter aisle of Asian sta­ples, from fresh noo­dles to spices to gleam­ing woks. are another spe­cialty, fes­tooned FAB­RIC SHOPS with colour­ful bolts of fab­ric out­side, with ev­ery­thing from zip­pers to thread spools in­side.

SEM­A­PHORE, SA

This charm­ing beach­side sub­urb 14 kilo­me­tres from the cen­tre of Ade­laide has some­thing go­ing on all year round. SEM­A­PHORE SUM­MER CAR­NI­VAL takes place from mid-De­cem­ber to the last Sun­day in Jan­uary, with fire­works on New Year’s Eve and Aus­tralia Day. SEM­A­PHORE GREEK CUL­TURAL FES­TI­VAL, held in mid-Jan­uary, will cel­e­brate its 40th an­niver­sary in 2019. ADE­LAIDE IN­TER­NA­TIONAL KITE FES­TI­VAL is a riot of colour on the beach – and in the skies – over the Easter long week­end. , held on the SEM­A­PHORE MU­SIC FES­TI­VAL Labour Day long week­end in Oc­to­ber has per­form­ers, food trucks, rides and craft beers. is a day of fam­ily SEM­A­PHORE STREET FAIR fun tak­ing place along Sem­a­phore Street on the last Sun­day in Novem­ber.

BALA­CLAVA, VIC

Never heard of the south-east Mel­bourne sub­urb of Bala­clava? Well, here are a few facts to en­lighten you on the sub­ject. by many to be St Kilda’s IT IS CON­SID­ERED slightly cooler cousin given it is bor­dered by the eter­nally hip bay-side sub­urb, but re­mains largely undis­cov­ered by the week­end hordes. Jewish Or­tho­dox com­mu­nity THERE IS A HUGE here, re­flected in the pres­ence of stores like Glick’s, a lo­cal in­sti­tu­tion, opened in 1969 by Men­del Glick, and still pro­duc­ing chewy bagels and all man­ner of breads and bakes. is con­cen­trated THE LO­CAL COF­FEE SCENE along Carlisle Street and nearby Inker­man and Wil­liam Streets, while a cold beer on a hot day can be had at The Lo­cal Tap­house.

FITZROY, VIC

With its eclec­tic, bo­hemian per­son­al­ity, this in­ner-city Mel­bourne sub­urb is a riot of street art, cafes and shop­ping. The best place to start any ex­plo­ration of these parts is on Gertrude Street, off the main drag of Brunswick Street. Find a ta­ble at South Amer­i­can diner Sonido BREAK­FAST (sonido.com.au; No. 69) and or­der an arepa, a round patty made from maize, and topped with ev­ery­thing from cheese, eggs, beef or chorizo. Cot­tage In­dus­try (No. 67) is a small TIME TO SHOP bou­tique filled with fash­ion and homeware pieces that have been de­signed and made in Fitzroy or sourced from around the world; Pick­ings & Parry (No. 166) has menswear and ac­ces­sories im­bibed with qual­ity and crafts­man­ship. As the name im­plies, Archie’s All Day (No. 189) LUNCH (archiesall­day.com) serves from early to late, with the lunch menu of burg­ers and com­fort food kick­ing into ac­tion at 10am so there is no pause in pro­ceed­ings. Obus (No. 226) is the work TIME TO SHOP SOME MORE of fash­ion de­signer Kylie Zebst, whose wear­able de­signs are in­flu­enced by her trav­els; Lit­tle Salon (No. 71) has girly frocks, ac­ces­sories, home­wares and Love­hate jew­ellery. Chef An­drew McCon­nell’s Cutler & Co (No. 5557) DIN­NER is a lo­cal in­sti­tu­tion housed in an old metal works.

A funky col­lec­tion of cafes, eater­ies, shops and gal­leries has been retro-fit­ted into the area’s charm­ing his­toric build­ings.

KALAMUNDA, WA

If the worth of a sub­urb is mea­sured by the tal­ent and pas­sion of the peo­ple who choose to be there, then Kalamunda’s ca­chet is on the up and up. Lo­cated in the eastern sub­urbs of Perth, at the very edge of the metropoli­tan area, the lo­ca­tion saw sig­nif­i­cant de­vel­op­ment in the post-war era, es­pe­cially dur­ing the ’60s and ’70s, and now boasts a pop­u­la­tion of over 62,000 peo­ple, in­clud­ing a few sig­nif­i­cant trans­plants from the CBD: two of the head­lin­ing eater­ies here, Mason & Bird (ma­so­nand­bird.com.au) and Chat­ford & Co Cafe, are helmed by ex-Rock­pool Bar & Grill Perth alumni. At Chat­ford & Co Cafe it’s ex-head pas­try chef, Gavin Chater, while over at Mason & Bird, for­mer Rock­pool man­agers Matt Nguyen and Ja­clyn Noel have teamed up with Brad John­ston.

NORTH HO­BART, TAS

You don’t re­ally know North Ho­bart un­less you know to (cheek­ily) call it NoHo. Al­lit­er­a­tions aside, this sub­urb has seen a mini boom over the last few years as rental re­turns in our south­ern­most state climbed and climbed, and ‘main­lan­ders’ started dis­cov­er­ing the al­lure of a more Tas­ma­nian pace of life. Sud­denly its slightly pedes­trian main street, El­iz­a­beth Street, lo­cated up the hill from the more sparkly water­front of Sala­manca Place, was trans­formed into a funky col­lec­tion of cafes, eater­ies, shops and gal­leries retro-fit­ted into the area’s charm­ing his­toric build­ings, many of which date back over 100 years. So now NoHo is des-res in the ex­treme.

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