Australian Traveller - - The 100 -

It’s a plain; a whole lot of noth­ing (Nullar­bor means ‘no trees’ in Latin af­ter all), the pres­ence of ab­sence as it were. Or is it? Drive along one of the long­est sec­tions of straight road in the world (about 146 kilo­me­tres of bi­tu­men with­out a turn), and you should spot the coun­try’s big­gest (feral) land mam­mal, the camel; desert flow­ers stretch­ing off for in­fin­ity that bloom into colour­ful life with the sea­sons; and mag­nif­i­cent sun­sets set­ting it all off with low desert light come evening. A drive here is time enough for end­less con­tem­pla­tion, but don’t sim­ply set your cruise con­trol and fall asleep at the wheel. Take one of the tracks that stab off the Eyre High­way to see what the Nullar­bor and its name­sake na­tional park are all about: stag­ger­ing views of the Great Aus­tralian Bight, where the desert scrub comes to an abrupt end at ver­ti­cal sea cliffs, the South­ern Ocean be­yond. From May to Oc­to­ber, you’ll spot south­ern right whales gath­er­ing off the coast to calve. It seems the pres­ence of ab­sence can be some­thing very beau­ti­ful in­deed.

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