JAPANESE EXPRESSIONS
Tasmania’s SECOND CITY takes a trip to Tokyo with KOSATEN, a Japanese EATERY that delights with NOVELTY and delivers fast-paced CULINARY goods, finds CLARE ACHESON.
YOU COULD BE FORGIVEN for suspecting that tipping Launceston as Australia’s top up-and-coming destination was a sure-fire sign that I was losing my edge. But with its stunning natural surrounds and growing culinary and nightlife scenes, the Tasmanian city is fast becoming one to watch. I dropped into Japanese restaurant Kosaten, which opened last year, on a buzzing Friday night, with the hope that the marriage of Tassie seafood and Tokyo style would be something worth writing home about.
From the outside, Kosaten appears unassuming. Similar to its sister venue in Hobart, the Launceston chapter borrows directly from the neon-tinged streets of Shibuya, Tokyo’s coolest suburb. The building was previously a power tools supplier, however its revamped interior now hums with colour, fusing Japanese pop influences with industrial structures: equal parts fanciful design touches and functional rubber-clad floors.
Upon entering, I ask myself if my mind is playing tricks on me, but after my vision adjusts, I realise that I have come face-to-face with the bizarrely futuristic jewel in Kosaten’s crown: a single circular, suspended video artwork that casts an ambient glow over the sunken dining room beneath it. As my eyes refocus, the flickering globe depicts cherry blossoms dancing on a spring breeze, setting a much more idyllic scene.
Keen to dine within the heart of the action, I take a ringside seat at the sushi carousel that lines the venue’s central corridor and begin scrolling through the menu on an iPad, which promises to have my order delivered right to my seat. The dishes follow traditional Japanese express dining formats; sushi is served in pairs, with sashimi, seared tataki and filling maki rolls on offer, alongside a variety of salads and vegetable dishes seasoned with sesame, miso and wasabi dressing. Much to my delight, both Tasmanian oysters and Japanese-style fried chicken are up for grabs, ensuring that Kosaten’s kitchen pleases the crowds as well as satisfying a worldly palate.
It’s worth noting that, in keeping with the space’s next-gen vibe, my order arrives at lightning speed. Presentation is minimal but precise, and stand-outs include the pumpkin agedashi tofu, a sweeter twist on the traditional dish, topped with toasted pumpkin seeds; the kingfish sashimi, which thankfully isn’t overdressed; and the pan-licked tuna tataki. Playful touches such as sparkling Sho Chiku Bai sake – think of Japan’s take on the classic alcopop – and Pocky biscuits served with desserts make for an evening that’s as much about entertainment as it is refuelling.
Of all the dishes, it’s the matcha tiramisu that so closely encapsulates the joy to be found in the Japanese approximation of an otherwise foreign dish. Part Hokkaido cheese tart, part umami sponge, it’s neither green-tea sweet nor Venetian dessert, but makes for a fitting end to my designated sitting (bar seats come with a 90-minute timer).
On many levels, Kosaten delivers on its promises: hyperspeed service, tasty Tokyo-inspired bites, and a light-hearted approach to dining. But where it falls down is in the warmth and guidance that comes with one-on-one hospitality. If you’re hunting for something fresh and immediate within Launceston’s central grid, it’s certainly worth booking, but be prepared to have your appetite satisfied swiftly, then head to a local craft beer haunt and embrace the neighbouring traditionalists.