A NEW LEAF
In a city that is all about good coffee, the arrival of Yugen Tea Bar (yugenteabar.com.au) is challenging Melburnians to consider a different daily brew. The stylish, moody space, installed in the new Capitol Grand in South Yarra, presents like a tea apothecary where tea sommelier Thibaut Chuzeville brews some 40 teas from 10 different countries, and pastry chef John Demetrios has assembled a menu of delightful sweet accompaniments that elevate high tea to high art. We asked Thibaut to read the tea leaves and reveal all about Yugen Tea Bar.
WHAT DROVE YOU TO OPEN A TEA BAR IN THE COFFEE CAPITAL OF THE COUNTRY?
Yugen Tea Bar is an element of Yugen Restaurant set to open early ’22. The idea was born between culinary director chef Stephen Nairn, executive pastry chef John Demetrios and myself. My passion is tea, and together we had the idea to create something in the space that united all of our passions, a balance between artisan loose-leaf tea and handcrafted pastry. You can get amazing coffee everywhere in Australia; there is space for great tea.
THE TAKING OF TEA IN OTHER COUNTRIES IS IMBUED WITH MUCH CEREMONY. IS THE IDEA TO REINVENT IT IN AUSTRALIA AS AN INDULGENCE?
Not as an indulgence, no, but definitely with respect. It’s rare to have a bad cup of coffee in Australia, but it’s more challenging to find a good cup of tea. Yugen is respectful of the tea makers, their dedication to their artistry in growing and making tea. The setting is more contemporary, and our tea-service style is not Japanese or Chinese as we have teas from all over the world, yet it is inspired by traditions from those countries.
WHAT WILL A VISIT TO YUGEN INVOLVE?
Yugen Tea Bar is a retail shop and a tea bar so guests can pop in to pick up some tea or teaware, pastries and chocolates or they can sit and enjoy a serving of tea from our à la carte menu. The menu offers everything from a single serve of tea or a 45-minute tea experience with our sommeliers. We also have afternoon tea, served with tea or Champagne and [this year] we will open in the evenings and have tea cocktails and a dessert degustation.
HOW DID YOU DECIDE ON THE TEAS ON THE MENU – MUCH TESTING AND TASTING?
Yes, so much tasting. My fascination with tea has spanned over six or seven years. The lockdowns in Melbourne over the last two years did give me and the team time to contact farmers and growers from all over the world to get samples. We now have 40 different teas from 10 different countries.
HOW DID YOU CONCEPTUALISE THE SWEETS MENU TO COMPLEMENT THE TEA MENU?
As a Frenchman, I am a bit picky about patisserie, but I can comfortably say I am working with the best pastry chef in Australia. John Demetrios is the executive pastry chef for all the restaurants and event spaces at Capitol Grand. He is an incredible talent. His pastries are both delicious and complex, and work seamlessly with all the different styles and flavour profiles of tea.
WHICH IS YOUR FAVOURITE BREW?
There are so many variables and styles of tea and what you drink depends on your mood, the season etc. If I had to pick one, it would be oolong. The oolongs from the Wuyi Mountains [in Fujian, China], are some of my favourite.