New look, old soul
A reimagined COLONIAL pub in the Southern Highlands is quite the TALK OF THE TOWN. Christine Aldred DISCOVERS why.
IN THE HISTORIC VILLAGE of Berrima in the NSW Southern Highlands, there’s a new kid in town – though with a very old soul. Heritage-listed Taylor’s Crown Inn, built by convicts in 1844, has been transformed into Berrima Vault House – a swank private members’ club that throws open its doors to visitors on weekends so anyone can get a taste of its thoroughly modern dining and drinking spaces. Which means I’m in.
First up, drinks and nibbles. I’m expecting to sit in the enticingly named Gin Palace, day menu at hand, but instead I’m directed downstairs, to a world of enchantment. Tucked under the stairs is Hank & Molly’s pintsized cocktail bar named for the resident ghosts. Yes, really. Just through the low-slung door, I’m perched on a studded bar stool in arctic blue peering into two former gaol holding cells converted into cosy, private dining spaces. Dominated by chunky sandstone walls and overhead timber beams, they’re aglow with warm table lighting while colonial folk in large frames loom above and original iron bars recall residents past.
I opt for a juicy burger, piping hot salty chips – the perfect thickness – and refreshing apple slaw to cut through the carbs. A botanical local gin hot off the press is recommended while my companion opts for a delightful albariño. Non-drinkers aren’t forgotten, with a selection of non-alcoholic distilled spirits mixed into cocktails such as a ‘nogroni’.
Another day and I’m back, starting in the relaxed pebbled courtyard stepped down from the road, dotted with lounge seating and tables and ideal for soaking up some late sun. The recommended sunset sour cocktail is perfectly balanced with sweet, and the crisp Italian soave ideal for closing out an afternoon.
Inside The Lodge, it’s sleek but laid-back, the contemporary sitting comfortably in a room steeped in history. A green velvet chesterfield lightens the mood, the walls hung with colourful artworks available for purchase.
The menu is designed for sharing, from charcuterie boards through to barbecue half-chickens, though we’d need reinforcements to sample a good spread. Light, thinly sliced with yuzu and crème fraiche for added interest, the kingfish ceviche ticks all the boxes, and the 16-hour braised lamb shoulder with lemon rosemary glaze is a falling-off-the-bone success. Complemented by light pumpkin falafels and luscious roast carrots with cumin yoghurt and dukkah, it’s reminiscent of family Sunday roasts, only fancier. Not surprising given chef Tommy Prosser’s English roots and past life in a Michelin-starred inn.
On point all evening, the service leads me astray on the home stretch. The recommended ‘strawberries and cream’ is disappointing and not the light finish I’m seeking, the scattering of berries and sheet of jelly not enough to counter the heaviness of the brie cheesecake. Perhaps the undersold melon summer salad would have been a better choice.
It’s not intended as ‘fine dining’ but with finessed rustic fare in a clutch of wonderfully atmospheric spaces, it’s a great spot to discover with friends.