Valley heights
CHARTING A COURSE to the dramatic surrounds of the Greater Blue Mountains more often than not sees drivers ascending the hazy, undulating forms that dominate the Sydney horizon via the Great Western Highway, which weaves like a ribbon this way and that through thick bushland and enveloping mists. But taking the road (slightly) less travelled offers equal drama and diversions to fill a few hours or a few days (full disclosure: this is one of my favourite drives anywhere in the country).
The journey out of Sydney tracks along the highway past Parramatta, before heading north-west towards the historic towns of Windsor and Richmond, where the picture-postcard appeal of this road trip really starts along the Bells Line of Road
Windsor is worth being your first stop on the journey, sitting idyllically as it does on a wide expanse of the Hawkesbury River and boasting delightful Georgian houses to admire, gentle riverside walks and even a patch of ‘beach’ on the riverbank that locals treat with as much reverence as if it was Bondi Beach itself. Search out the heritage-listed St Matthew’s Anglican Church on Moses Street to see a fine example of early colonial architecture, designed by Francis Greenway and constructed using convict labour (many of whom left their initials in the red bricks), and pick through the graves to find those of First Fleet surgeon Thomas Arndell and William Cox, who built the road over the Blue Mountains.
Heading out of Windsor past the green stretch of the local polo club, the road starts to climb through towns and trees. If you didn’t grab a coffee in Windsor, Kurrajong (less than 30 minutes’ drive away) presents itself as the perfect destination for morning tea, with its modest main street lined with boutiques and cafes, including The Village Kitchen, which offers expansive mountain views from its wide deck.
From Kurrajong, the Bells Line of Road continues through Kurrajong Heights until it reaches the charming town of Bilpin, which suffered the hardships of the Black Summer bushfires of 2019–20; the defiant green regrowth crowding charcoal-black tree trunks is a poignant visual reminder that the area is still in a stage of recovery. This is apple country, and the chance to pick your own straight from the tree is a thrill in our over-homogenised times. Load up on fruit at Shields Orchard and then head down the road to Hillbilly Cider to taste what becomes of its trademarked Julie apple, in the form of Sweet Julie cider (the perfect accompaniment to Hillbilly’s wood-fired pizzas for lunch).
As the morning transitions into afternoon, a stop at The Blue Mountains Botanic Garden at Mt Tomah should be prioritised for the return journey to give it due attention. Continuing along a mountain ridge that affords jaw-dropping views out to plunging valleys shrouded in thick bush, the descent into Lithgow indicates you are inching closer to your final, dazzling destination.
It takes about 45 minutes from Lithgow to be delivered into the jaw-on-the-floor magnificence of the Wolgan Valley, home to Emirates One&Only Wolgan Valley (full disclosure: this is one of my favourite resorts anywhere in the world). Having achieved internationally accredited carbon-neutral status upon opening in 2009, the resort is a blissful union of considered luxury and exacting sustainability that is the perfect exclamation point on a journey of discovery and drama. 181 kilometres. DISTANCE: