Australian Traveller

Rolling through the green grass of Gippsland

- Steve Madgwick

It’s difficult to imagine a better way to connect with the laid-back townlets and the green, green grass of Gippsland than by rolling through on arguably the region’s best multiday cycleway: the Great Southern Rail Trail.

From Leongatha (135 kilometres southeast of Melbourne), the neutral-gradient gravel trail parts dairy-farm fields and leafy peppermint forests. Stop one is slow-food hub Koonwarra; its ethical soft-centre based around Paddlewhee­l, the local farmers market store, Milly & Romeo’s Artisan Bakery and Cooking School, and The Ethical Food Store (great for a locally sourced lunch).

Roll on over restored trestle bridges and witness the Strzelecki Ranges emerge from the foliage. Linger in Meeniyan for its galleries and coffee-and-cake options (especially Moo’s) and the Meeniyan Pantry & Cellar, an upmarket deli selling cheese, wine and local smallgoods. Gentle Gippsland ups and downs will then deliver you further along to Fish Creek (pictured above), an artist hub with a cheeky grin.

A six-kilometre ride from town, The Church House Gourmet Retreat, featured on Grand

Designs Australia, is a worthy place to rest your gently throbbing thighs. The shapely Art Deco-style Fish Creek Hotel (with a giant fish perched precarious­ly on its roof) is the spot to shoot the breeze with fun Fish-Creekians.

On day two, with Melbourne seemingly an aloof memory, the ‘The Prom’ (below) shows you her wild soul down in the distance all day. Leave the trail at the subtly signed Gurneys Cider (before Foster) to drink in the vistas (after a short, steepish ride up through fields) and head-lightening scrumpy cider made from wild apples. Freewheel through time-warped Toora before your tyres roll onto the long, long Port Welshpool Long Jetty and a rendezvous with your return lift (which can be provided courtesy of Australian Cycling Holidays).

DISTANCE: 72 kilometres (a gentle ride over two days).

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