Sharon Winsor, Indigiearth and Warakirri Cafe, Mudgee

Ngemba Weilwan woman Sharon Winsor has found a way to celebrate her heritage through food. And, as a survivor of domestic violence, she says it’s been integral to her healing. In addition to overseeing operations at her Warakirri Cafe in Mudgee Arts Precinct, Sharon hosts a Warakirri Dining Experience and produces a line of Indigiearth chutneys, native herbs and spice blends. Sharon shares her story about using food to connect to her culture.

How do you pay homage to your heritage through food?

Native ingredients provided health and wellbeing to our ancestors for more than 60,000 years. Native ingredients connect us to our Dreaming, our storylines, mother Earth and to the sky, our Creator. Embracing our ingredients and botanicals is second nature. I would love to see native ingredients and products being used on a daily basis for everyone to learn about our culture, and about sustainable land management and practices. Serving food in our cafe is one of the most honourable things I can do to pay respect to my culture and what it has done for me. My culture nurtured me through dark times. My culture saved me.

What does cooking from your culture mean on both a personal and professional level?

Cooking from my culture is about more than earning a living. I am keeping traditional knowledge and practices alive. Educating the wider community on how they can participate and support with looking after Country, healing Country, and about sustainable harvesting and farming practices. Being one of the few female Indigenous chefs in the country makes me incredibly proud of my journey, my life and who I am. Native foods are traditionally women’s business, yet representation of Aboriginal women in the industry is at less than one per cent.

You are a total trailblazer. What’s your vision?

My vision is to help support our industry and people wherever I can. I’m very fortunate to have learned knowledge from many people and Elders from across the country. I don’t own the knowledge; I am a caretaker and that knowledge needs to be nurtured. Aboriginal women always have a responsibility back to the community and our people. It’s a part of who we are.

What dish best represents you as a Ngemba Weilwan woman?

I grew up in Rocky Glen, Queensland, and one of my favourite childhood dishes is bread and butter pudding. I use that childhood recipe and weave wattleseed into it. This recipe feels like home.

Your cafE is 100 per cent Aboriginalowned and you use it as a pathway to support other young Indigenous women in the community. What motivates you?

The fire in my belly. The fire is my culture and connections. My culture has never given up on me. I will not give up on my culture. I will always fight for our existence and recognition.

What are diners at Indigiearth most surprised about?

Diners are most surprised about how we can create a fine-dining experience with native foods. People can’t believe the flavours. They are also surprised to learn about what different ingredients were used for, both traditionally and medicinally.

Where do you source your ingredients from?

We source ingredients locally and from across the country. We use a lot from our own native food garden on site, too, and I’ve included these in my book, Bush Foods & Botanicals ($29.95).

You have a Warakirri Degustation Dinner with author Bruce Pascoe and MasterChef winner Elena Jo Duggan at Huntington Estate in Mudgee on 5 November. What can diners expect?

Diners can expect to experience flavours and ingredients that demonstrate the diversity within our own culture and some of the 6000 edible native species that we have in the country. indigiearth.com.au