Good Food

Smoky braised brisket

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Brisket has always been one of my favourite cuts because it’s cheap and incredibly flavourful, with a lovely layer of fat running through it.

This recipe is inspired by the smoky flavours of American and South American barbecue, on offer at hot new London restaurant­s like Neil Rankin’s Temper in Soho and Smokestak in Shoreditch. This is just the kind of comfort food I want to eat on a cold winter’s night.

SERVES 3!4 PREP 20 mins plus at least 1 hr marinating COOK 3 hrs 45 mins EASY

800g-1kg brisket, boneless 1 tbsp light muscovado sugar

For the spice mix

1 tsp smoked paprika pinch chilli "lakes

1/ tsp garlic granules 2

1/ tsp ground cumin 2

For the spicy gravy

1 dried chipotle chilli

1 tbsp beef dripping or neutral oil 1 onion, sliced

1 carrot, chopped

1 garlic clove, "inely chopped 1 thyme sprig

1 bay leaf

1 star anise

1 lemon, zested

800ml good beef stock

1 tbsp plain "lour

1 tbsp butter

1 tbsp honey

For the soured cream

1 tbsp snipped chives

100g soured cream or crème fraîche 1/ lemon, juiced

2

To serve

jacket potatoes buttered kale 1 Rub the brisket with the sugar and 1 tbsp sea salt and let sit for 5 mins. Mix the spices and 1 tbsp pepper, then rub all over the brisket. Leave to marinate in the fridge for at least 1 hr, or preferably more. 2 Take the meat out of the fridge 30 mins before cooking. Rehydrate the chipotle in hot water. Heat oven to 140C/120C fan/gas 1. Heat a heavy-bottomed flameproof casserole over a medium-high heat and add the dripping or oil. Brown the meat on all sides, then transfer to a plate.

3 Add the onion, carrot, garlic, thyme and bay leaf to the casserole and fry over a medium-high heat for 6-8 mins until aromatic, softened and starting to char and colour. Drain and chop the chipotle and add to the pot along with the brisket, star anise, lemon zest and stock. Bring the stock to a gentle simmer, then cover with a lid and put in the oven for 3 hrs or until tender. 4 Remove the brisket from the casserole and wrap in foil to keep warm while you finish making the spicy gravy. Put the casserole on the hob over a high heat and reduce for about 20 mins until beginning to thicken. Stir the flour and butter into a paste and add to the casserole. Stir until the paste has dissolved and the sauce is smooth and pourable. Season with salt and honey until you’re happy with the flavour. 5 Mix the chives and soured cream with a squeeze of lemon juice. Unwrap and slice the brisket and reheat the slices briefly in the warm gravy, then serve with crispy, salt-roasted jacket potatoes, buttered kale and the soured cream.

PER SERVING (4) 552 kcals • fat 34g • saturates 16g • carbs 18g • sugars 13g • "ibre 4g • protein 42g • salt 4.5g

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