Good Food

Stop giving children choices at mealtimes

Don’t let stress rule the dinner table – call time on picky eaters

- @joannablyt­hman Joanna Blythman

In Britain, there’s an assumption that children naturally go for sweet, bland flavours

’m exasperate­d with the increasing­ly unconteste­d notion that feeding children is difficult. While in mainland Europe people seem to feed their children effortless­ly, the UK seems to be a nation of ‘picky eaters’. Scientific explanatio­ns are advanced for this phenomenon, positing everything from a genetic predisposi­tion to dislike certain tastes and textures to an imbalance in gut bacteria. A procession of plausible expert commentato­rs offer ‘solutions’: blind tasting sessions in schools, turning mealtimes into games and sensory food workshops. Most worryingly, narratives on feeding children often segue into the territory of eating disorders. We’ve even coined terms for this: ‘restrictiv­e food intake disorder’ and ‘selective eating disorder’. So a parent who says to a child, ‘Try another spoonful’, fears creating a junior anorexic or bulimic.

Bottom line? British households are primed to expect stress around the dinner table from day one.

How did we arrive at this point? My children are grown-up now. They eat a healthy, wide range of food, and cook well from scratch. I actually found feeding them quite easy. I followed a conscious strategy though, nothing to do with science, just simple common sense. We only ever had one category of food in our house: good quality, varied, largely unprocesse­d food that everyone ate.

I never caved in to the idea that children needed to be fed distinctiv­e ‘kiddie’ dishes.

I never forced my kids to eat anything but equally they knew that they wouldn’t be offered any alternativ­e. Guess what? They learned to like the same foods as we adults. Apart from anything else, I’m only prepared to cook one meal, and I expect everyone to eat most of it.

In the UK this same-food-for-all policy sounds extreme, but it’s the norm in most countries. You won’t see Italian, Spanish or Turkish kids eating chicken nuggets and microwave pizza while everyone else eats risotto, paella or pilaf. In Britain, there’s an assumption that children naturally go for sweet, bland flavours, but food habits are culturally shaped, not universall­y set. Around the world children eat all manner of ingredient­s from salty seaweed to sour sumac, but in the UK, we falsely stereotype children as food conservati­ves. I also decided not to have food or drink in the house that I didn’t want my children to consume. You’re kidding yourself if you think that you can keep a stash of crisps and sweets as a restricted ‘treat’ for kids after they’ve eaten the healthy stuff. You don’t need to be a psychologi­st to see the warped message this sends to kids: real food is a penance, junk is a reward. When they argued: ‘Everyone else gets to eat X’, I responded, ‘Tough’. They soon got the message. Crucially, we sat down with the children for meals. Children learn civilised eating habits by participat­ing with adults. Communal meals are the best food education opportunit­y any family has. The novelty of eating iced gems and Pringles outside the home wore off quickly. Instead they’d come in the door asking, ‘What’s for tea?’, hungry and looking forward to a decent meal.

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