ALICE LASCELLES
Back in the early noughties, Alice Lascelles – ‘rhymes with tassels’, as she puts it – was in a band while working on a drinks magazine, just as the cocktail scene in London was taking of. It was an exciting time and Alice was unusual in being an all-rounder rather than a specialist. ‘When I started, it was segregated; you were either a whisky drinker, a wine drinker or a cocktail person,’ she explains. Alice was one of the frst to write across all categories, and is now one of the most trusted drinks writers and broadcasters in the country. Things have changed a lot since those early days: ‘Now you have to be aware of other drinks and food. These days I am as much about restaurant openings as bars.’
She describes herself as ‘an old-school hack’ and her training in journalism is evident in the rigorous way that she approaches a subject as seemingly frivolous as drink. She is a counterpoint to the social media crew, who are often cheerleaders for the industry. Alice was ahead of the pack in picking up on craft gin way back in 2009. Yet she plays down her role: ‘Journalists are not as infuential as they think. What people drink is more down to personal recommendations, marketing and price.’ According to Alice, ‘drinks that take of are those that can be done well again and again, like Aperol spritz (aperol.com), cucumber gin, and vermouth with ice.’ She is particularly impressed by Fever Tree ( fever-tree.com) because they invented a completely new category: premium tonic water. Some bars now have a tonic water menu to go alongside their gin list. In fact, Alice thinks that non-alcoholic drinks for adults have a big future because there is now ‘a much more interesting and healthier drinking culture’. alicelascelles.com
Cocktail in a sentence
‘Vermouth over ice with a slice. With its mix of wine, spirit and botanicals, vermouth is really a ready-made cocktail in a bottle.’
Best food & booze match
‘A dram of Talisker and an oyster.’
Next big booze trend
‘Simple drinks done well by people who aren’t pros. For example, a G&T in a frozen glass with good gin, fizzy tonic and a simple garnish.’