Good Food

5 RAW MILK CHEESES YOU SHOULD TRY

Paxton & Whitfield expert Hero Hirsh’s guide to some unpasteuri­sed classics

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1ROQUEFORT PDO*, FRANCE This blue sheep’s milk cheese has a very crumbly, soft texture and an incredibly complex flavour profile. The best strike a balance between sweet, savoury, salty and piquant. How to enjoy The classic drink pairing is sauternes. For a food pairing, serve with a sweet fruit paste like membrillo.

2COMTE PDO*, FRANCE

A hard cheese with 83 flavour profiles that range from milky-sweet and citrussy to toasted bread and roasted peanuts. For me, it’s perfect at around 20 months when it begins to develop a few crystals. How to enjoy A dry oloroso sherry makes a great pairing.

3BRIE DE MEAUX PDO*, FRANCE

The perfect brie should be ripened through with no chalky line. Also, the texture should be supple, not totally liquid. Flavour-wise, expect savoury cabbage and mushroom aromas.

How to enjoy Can be quite taxing to pair with certain wines or chutney, but a crusty baguette is hard to beat.

4PITCHFORK CHEDDAR, SOMERSET Pitchfork is a really exciting raw milk, cloth-bound cheddar made by the same producers as Gorwydd Caerphilly and recently won the Best British Cheese title at the 2019 World Cheese Awards. It is juicy and acidic, savoury and brothy. How to enjoy Perfect with tangy piccalilli.

5PARMIGIAN­O REGGIANO PDO*, ITALY The ultimate expression of umami. As it matures, the flavours and aromas develop from citrus and hazlenuts to pineapple, walnuts and pepper. It should be aged for a minimum 12 months, but shows more complexity at 24-30 months. How to enjoy With a brut champagne.

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