BEST OF FEBRUARY
Leeks aren’t just for soup – Rosie Birkett shares new ways to cook with this humble veg
SEASONAL
Rosie Birkett’s favourite ways with leeks
Their softness means they’re begging to be paired with something crunchy
Roasting whole leeks directly on the shelf of a hot oven is my new jam, and it should be yours, too – especially now, when we can take our pick of the season. Give them a clean first (make sure you get between the layers to get the grit out), then coat them in a little oil (rapeseed is best), season with sea salt and put them in the oven. In about 20 minutes, your house will be filled with the warming scent of roasted leeks, and, once you’ve peeled away the fibrous outer layers, you’re left with the most deliciously sweet and buttery leek insides to do with what you like. Chop and toss them through a pan of creamy mashed potatoes; serve them as they are, dusted with za’atar and some cool, sharp yogurt or labneh for dipping; or douse them with a mustardy, tarragon-flecked vinaigrette and serve them on a comforting bed of barley or spelt, as in the recipe overleaf, which updates a French classic to create something more substantial. The sweetness and softness of leeks means they’re begging to be paired with something crunchy, whether it’s in the form of golden breadcrumbs, herbed, savoury crumble or toasted nuts. Likewise, they love sharing a plate with bold, salty and astringent flavours – I’ve been known to spread them on bread with a little ricotta, topped with preserved anchovies, and by the same logic, they’re great with marinated olives and preserved lemon.
Their gentle flavour also benefits from a chilli kick, and in the flatbreads on the next page, they’re fried with some earthy mushrooms, piled onto crème fraîche-laden flatbreads and drizzled with chilli oil.
I recently ate a potato and Ogleshield pie at Rochelle Canteen in east London, and found myself thinking about it for days afterwards. It’s the inspiration behind the pie overleaf, which reignites that old classic combination of leek and potato. Ogleshield is a pungent, washedrind British cheese from Somerset that melts really beautifully, and if you can seek it out then please do, but otherwise a tomme, doux de Montagne, a good mature cheddar or reblochon work well. You’ll notice I’ve used a little vodka in the pastry – it contains very little water, which lessens the development of gluten in the dough, making a flakier, lighter pastry for your pie.