Perfect potatoes

In our BBC Good Food Podcast, the leading chef shared his tips for cooking the humble spud – here are the key points to remember

ROASTIES DON’T use baking potatoes

Avoid big, washed baking potatoes. They contain so much water, they’re rubbish at becoming crispy.

DON’T cook in duck or goose fat or olive oil

Plain vegetable oil is best. Why add another flavour to something that’s already amazing?

DO cook the potatoes gently

For around 40 mins (refer to the second point on mash, see right), then leave them to cool on a rack.

DON’T shake the potatoes in the pan

That thing where you put the lid on, pass the water off and shake the pan? Don’t do that! Gently lift them out, transfer to a rack and leave to one side to cool.

DON’T crowd your roasties in a tin

Overcrowding your potatoes creates steam, which makes it harder to get them crispy.

DO use any overcooked potatoes

If you end up with some overcooked potatoes after cooking them in water, don’t waste them: mash and mix with some cooking water to make a paste, then roll the other potatoes in it before roasting – the coating will be nice and crisp.

MASH DO try lighter alternatives to cream and butter

Mash just-boiled new potatoes with fat-free yogurt or low-fat crème fraîche for an absolutely beautiful mash that’s healthier.

DON’T boil potatoes

Rapid boiling breaks potatoes down from the outside so they start to absorb water. Poach them until cooked through, drain in a colander, then leave to steam-dry.

DO use a ricer

For a very smooth, delicious mash, pass the poached potatoes through a ricer, then a very fine mesh.

DON’T use an electric whisk

Beating the mash with a plastic spatula instead before serving, stretches the glutens and starches, and helps the potatoes absorb whatever you’re adding to them.

CHIPS DON’T make chips in summer

Potatoes are sweeter in summer because the sugar content is higher, so if you fry them, they’ll go dark too quickly. You’ll end up with soggy, dark chips.

DO triple-cook them

When you fry potatoes once until crisp, they’re often soft by the time you eat them. Potatoes contain a lot of water, so even when crispy on the outside, the inside will be creating steam, softening the chips. Triple-cooking gets rid of as much moisture as possible. First, blanch or steam until cooked, then leave to dry on a rack. Then, fry at 140C until most of the bubbling stops. Put them on a tray in the fridge until needed. Fry again at 180C when ready. They’ll stay nice and crisp.