IN SEASON

Deputy food editor Esther Clark shares recipes using the best of the month’s produce, while Emma Crawforth of BBC Gardeners’ World o ers advice on growing leeks

Recipes to make the most of this month’s produce

February is the last of the dark winter months before we move into spring. This time still requires comfort and satisfaction, and I’ve created three hearty recipes to see you through to warmer days – a creamy fish pie with a buttery pastry lid (p90), a pulse-packed winter salad (p92), and an indulgent pasta (opposite).

Oranges are at their best now, and will be out of season by spring. During the cold months, they’re well-balanced and have sharp, juicy flavour. Two of my favourite types are navel and blood oranges – blood have marbled pink flesh, and slightly sharper acidity and more fragrant flavour than their common sister, while navel are tangy and tart, with a robust texture, making them a perfect partner to cured meats, smoked mackerel and mozzarella or feta. I’ve used my oranges in a salad – chickpeas and mozzarella keep it filling for winter, and with a chunk of bread alongside, you’ve got an easy meal with oranges as the star.

Leeks are a supermarket staple, and I’ve always associated them with cream-based sauces. Leek gratin is a simple thing of beauty, especially when baked with cheese and mustard. I’ve kept that in mind, but I’ve baked the leeks into a pie with smoked fish and prawns. The subtle punch of leeks works so well with the smoky fish and cheesy cream sauce in my fish pie. When buying leeks, remember that they vary in size. I’ve used two medium leeks, but if yours are large, use one – homegrown leeks are often larger and fatter.

My final February star is one of my favourite vegetables of all time, the short-season purple sprouting broccoli. I’ve used it simply, tossed into a carbonara with Spanish chorizo instead of pancetta. The earthy broccoli cuts through the fatty sausage, and adds a soft crunch. You can also enjoy charred purple sprouting broccoli in a warm salad with French dressing or tahini and a pinch of sea salt. Don’t overcomplicate it.