The best ribs for your BBQ
Butcher and writer Jessica Wragg gives the lowdown on pork ribs, one of the most popular choices for a summer barbecue
Charred fat and silky meat that falls off the bone with one tug; I think when it comes to the pork rib we can all agree that there’s true meaning to the phrase ‘the nearer the bone, the sweeter the meat’. But, pork ribs can be a subject of contention. Depending on where you are and who you’re talking to, asking for pork ribs at a butcher’s shop might get you one of a variety of cuts. Fear not – I’m here to help you decipher the different kinds of ribs available and what sets each apart, helping you on your way to becoming a certified pit master.
Baby back ribs
One thing to remember about baby back ribs is that they’re the least meaty of all rib cuts. Check with your butcher first if you’re looking for free-range, local pork ribs. As they’re taken from the loin, they’re generally a by-product for many butchers, who will only be able to get hold of them if they remove the bone from the pork chops. Because of this, many butchers import from Europe, where pork chops are commonly served boneless. With soft, succulent nuggets of meat in-between each bone, baby back ribs should be cooked over indirect heat for at least 2 hours. Pile on a sweet barbecuestyle sauce and cover in foil – these ribs will soak up the flavour as they ‘steam’ on your grill.
Spare ribs
Not to be confused with the ‘spare rib chops’ taken from the shoulder, spare ribs are taken from the breast of the pig. Many butchers might call them ‘meaty ribs’ thanks to the layer of belly meat they’ll leave on when cutting, and will leave what’s called the ‘rib tip’ on – the small flap of meat containing cartilage that connects the meat. The cut can be treated really similarly to baby back ribs, but the cooking time should be increased to allow the extra meat around the bone to tenderise. Cut them into singles, or cook as a whole piece covered in a brownsugar-based dry rub over a medium intensity indirect heat.
St Louis cut ribs
Popular amongst pro-barbecuers, St Louis cut ribs are similar to spare ribs in terms of where they come from, but a little more refined. While spare ribs taper off when left whole, the St Louis cut ribs are trimmed square, the rib tips removed to tidy the piece up. Whether a smoking novice or pitmaster pro, St Louis ribs are a reliable place to begin or continue your journey into low ‘n’ slow, thanks to the large amounts of intramuscular fat that tenderise from the inside out. Ask your butcher to remove the silver membrane from the back of ribs – it’s the only part of the meat that won’t soften throughout cooking. Barbecue this as a whole piece, well wrapped in foil, over a low indirect heat. You won’t regret it.