Bloomy rind cheeses

Experts from the Academy of Cheese guide us through speciality products to try at home

Named after their velvety, almost flu y coats, this group of cheeses are creamier and more complex and intense than younger, fresh cheeses. Their fantastic vegetal, mushroomlike flavours and silky, oozing pastes are the result of the ripening process, and often the reason they are the first ones to be devoured on a cheeseboard.

What are bloomy rind cheeses?

Brie and camembert are perhaps the most famous within this family of cheeses, and while there are hundreds of other varieties that stand up to these giants, we often compare them back to their French cousins. They can be identified by their white rinds, some of which will turn a pinkish-brown as they age. Bloomy rinds can be made with raw or pasteurised cow’s, goat’s and ewe’s milk, and can be chalky or creamy – some even spoonable.

In terms of pairing, this group goes well with with honey, preserves, figs and stone fruit, while nuts (particularly walnuts) add a welcome crunch. For beverages, what’s made within the region usually pairs well – the rule of thumb of ‘what grows together, goes together’ is particularly pertinent in this case.

How they’re made

These relatively young cheeses are made in much the same way as fresh cheeses. However, the cheesemaker will add moulds to the milk (usually penicillium camemberti or geotrichum candidum) to promote the growth of the rind. They’re left to ripen in a cool, damp atmosphere where the rind develops, which breaks down the curd from the outside-in. This is why they’re sometimes referred to as mould-ripened cheeses.