Good Food

Autumn COMFORT CHEESES

While away an evening with seasonal British cheeses from our partners, cheesegeek, specially curated by expert Ned Palmer

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As the nights draw in it’s time for comfort food – cheeses with warm colours, rich textures and complex lavours. The lush pastures of late summer make luxuriant cheeses that are now fully ripe, so it was easy to choose this selection, which showcases some of the best artisan cheeses that Britain and Ireland have to oer.

1. Spenwood

Made by Anne Wigmore and her team in Riseley, Berkshire Spenwood has the colour of old ivory, a tropical fruit lavour and bright acidity. Its fudgy texture is rich and warming in the mouth. Great on an after-dinner cheeseboar­d, it can also be substitute­d for parmesan to make an intriguing take on risotto. Anne Wigmore found inspiratio­n for Spenwood in Sardinian pecorino, which she tasted while on her way to Australia in a home-built yacht. Thankfully for us, she cut the voyage short and came back to Britain to make cheese.

2. Stithians

Made by Catherine Mead and her team at Lynher Dairies in Cornwall Stithians is the answer to the question ‘what happens if we make a yarg (Lynher’s bottle-green nettle-wrapped cheese) without the nettles? Younger cheeses are soft, with a delicate lavour and gentle

acidity, but the piece in this box is from a larger wheel specially selected by cheesegeek for longer maturation. Older Stithians are žirmer with a hint of pineapple, a boozy tang, and a warm note that makes me think of the happy herd cosied up in the barns for winter.

3. Cashel Blue

Made by Geurt Van Den Dikkenberg and the Grubb Family in Tipperary, Ireland

The creamy texture of Cashel is a tribute to Geurt’s patient, gentle skill and the luscious pastures of the Emerald Isle. Old stone and umami combine with a restrained blueing that makes this a great introducti­on to the blue family. Appropriat­ely, stout makes a žitting match; its dark chocolate note contrastin­g with the sweet, buttery cheese. Queen Elizabeth II enjoyed Cashel Blue during her visit to Ireland in 2011. If it’s good enough for royalty, it’s good enough for all of us.

4. Appleby’s Cheshire

Made by the Appleby family on Abbey Farm in Shropshire Rubbed between your žingers, moist, crumbly and sunset pink, Appleby’s Cheshire releases a comforting buttery aroma. Flavours of earth and hay combine with a žlinty mineral backbone, žinishing with a juicy acidity. All of these are nicely complement­ed by the malt and minerality of a Burton-style pale ale. The Applebys have been making their traditiona­l raw milk clothbound cheese for generation­s – it’s a rare survivor nowadays. All those years of craft and skill show in every bite.

5. Tunworth

Made by Stacey Hedges and Charlotte Spruce in Hampshire The gnarlier a cheese looks, the more interestin­g its žlavour. Tunworth, with its wrinkled orangežlecked rind and oozing golden center does not disappoint – the luxuriant texture delivers a complex palate of cooked cabbage, cream and pepper, with a spicy žinish. Try it with champagne and feel the bubbles combine with the cheese in a sparkling mousse. Raymond Blanc said that Tunworth is the best camembert in the world – he’s not allowed back into France until he takes it back.

Calling all cheese lovers

We’ve teamed up with fellow enthusiast­s cheesegeek to bring you some of the žinest dairy produce in the UK. There’s zero obligation and we guarantee you’ll enjoy every cheese – or your money back.

For £39.99 you’ll receive:

• Cheeses exclusivel­y selected for BBC Good Food by experts from the world of cheese

• Five amazing artisan cheeses, 605g total, from some of the most respected cheesemake­rs in the UK

• Jar of wild bilberry jam (200g)

• Pack of Peter’s Yard Original Sourdough Crispbread • Membership of the BBC Good Food Cheese Club, in partnershi­p with cheesegeek, tasting notes and scorecard

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