Pad see ew gai

This one-wok dish of noodles stir-fried with chicken, egg and light and dark soy sauces, finished with pepper and prik nam som (vinegarpickled chillies), beats pad Thai anytime. The key elements are: fresh rice noodles from your local Asian supermarket, as much heat as possible when the egg goes in, and Thai (not Chinese) oyster sauce, which isn’t as salty. You can also substitute expensive Chinese broccoli for British spring greens. As a kid, it’s one of the first dishes I remember mum making, as it would always stick to the wok and I’d have to do the washing-up! Andrew Chongsathien, chef-owner, Brother Thai, Cardi